For many of us, cooler weather, fall foliage and the reintroduction of all things pumpkin spice into our lives signals the start of the holiday baking season. For baking nerds (if you’re reading this, I regret to inform you that either you or someone you care about is one of us), it means that our bakes become cozier as we lean into flavors that complement the harvest of apples, pecans and pumpkins.
It is here, fellow baking nerd, that I must implore you to put down the cinnamon! Yes, I said it. Put it down. Take a breath, write me a furious email, and then come back. The fact is plain: In a world rich with spice, we use too much cinnamon. This one little spice does so much heavy lifting in our cool weather baking that it quickly becomes boring, and we categorically resent the flavor until the following fall.
I encourage you to think of cinnamon — and every other spice in baking — as supporting acts instead of mainstage performers. With a light touch, and in the right proportion, spices make our apples more apple-y and our pumpkins more pumpkin-y.
To practice our newfound cinnamon discipline, I’ve rustled up a recipe from one of my favorite baking categories: the tea cake. Not fussy and a great keeper, the tea cake is intended to pair with a good strong cup of coffee in the morning or an afternoon tea.
This cake is a modified version of a torta di zucca, an Italian fall cake that’s easy to throw together and highlights the delicate, natural sweetness of pumpkin (or sweet potato, if you feel adventurous). Omit the icing if you wish, but it does add a richness to the cake that makes teatime feel more luxurious.
Nicole Lewis
Nicole Lewis
Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.
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