Champagne roundups by wine writers traditionally are reserved for the final months of the year, to help partygoers prepare for the holiday season. Yet, we welcome the refreshment of a sparkler year-round; soothing ice-cold bubbles and quenching acidity are particularly nice for beating the heat-fueled fatigue of late summer. Lately, our fridge has been stocked with the easy-drinking, delightfully diverse category of sparkling wine known as pét-nats.
Short for pétillant-naturel, pét-nat is another term for an ancestral method of making sparkling wine. Essentially, the wine is bottled while still in the process of fermenting, capturing the resulting natural fizz of carbon dioxide. This is distinct from the two-step, controlled method for making Champagne, in which they take a finished still wine and start a secondary fermentation to produce bubbles.
The pét-nat style is quite popular amid the current wave of low-intervention — or “natural” — wines, due to its wild, spontaneous nature. The sediment, aka dead yeast, that remains after fermentation often is left in the bottle, resulting in a hazy appearance. While the cloudy aspect is daunting for some drinkers, it is harmless and even can add pleasant texture and subtle flavor.
Pét-nats are made from countless varieties of grapes, in almost every wine-growing country. They can be brightly sweet or bone dry. The alcohol generally is on the lower end of the spectrum, making them a favorite to grab for a lunchtime sip or an aperitif. Their price point also is more approachable, compared with Champagne. The majority of our favorite pét-nats are priced between $20 and $40, while the cost for a bottle of true Champagne starts in the high $30 range.
Here’s a selection of pét-nats we’ve particularly enjoyed this summer. Ask for them at specialty wine and spirits shops.
Osmote Cayuga White Pet-Nat 2020 — Made in the Finger Lakes region from the distinctly New York wine grape called cayuga, this low-alcohol (9.5%) fizzy pét-nat is perfect for both brunch and aperitif hour. This is the pairing for omelets or oysters.
Heidi Schrock Nostalgie Naturelle Pét Nat 2019 — From a longtime innovator in Austrian winemaking, Schrock’s pét-nat is an homage to the wines made by her great-grandfather. Made from pinot blanc, this is bright and mineral-driven, with green apple and honeydew melon flavors. It’s a treat with seafood.
Ngeringa Pet-Nat 2020 — This Australian pét-nat is a blend of pink semillon, viognier, chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah. The pink semillon and viognier juices macerate together for several days with the grape skins, resulting in the coppery hue and heady aromatics of candied melon and citrus flowers. It’s a delightful pairing with all manner of cheese.
Leon Gold Pink Gold 2019 — A deeply hued rosé pét-nat from Baden, Germany, it’s rich in raspberry and tart cherry fruit, with a refreshing orange zest finish. We pair it with lazy porch hangs and barbecue.
The Slaters are beverage industry veterans and the proprietors of the Expat and the Lark Winespace in Athens.
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