While dining in the cozy former home that houses Roswell’s Osteria Mattone, you might wonder about how Italian families once gathered around a pot of Sunday ragu. Did they sneak tastes of the daylong-simmering sauce with a piece of crusty bread as Nonna (the grandmother) was watching and stirring?
That’s what a bowl of tagliolini Bolognese at Osteria conveys to me.
One can imagine the aromas of tomato and finely chopped vegetables, softened and sweet, as the sauce is slow-cooked. A glug of wine fortifies the russet-hued richness, and a beefy mince is smoothed out with cream.
The spoonable sauce gets tossed with fresh pasta. Thinner than tagliatelle, tagliolini ribbons have a slight bite. The noodles are so delicate and flavorful that they could make a dish by themselves. But we are here for the Bolognese, and the hearty — yet gently silky — sauce clings to the rich, eggy strands. Shreds of ricotta salata add texture and a little salinity.
This dish has a family feel.
Osteria Mattone. 1095 Canton St., Roswell. 678-878-3378, osteriamattone.com.
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