Recommending pinot noir feels akin to recommending Taylor Swift’s music; insanely popular things are not usually in need of promotion.
The beloved red grape of France’s Burgundy region also is a star in the U.S. (California and Oregon), and those two countries make up the lion’s share of global pinot noir production. There’s no denying the ethereal experience of a silky, aromatic glass of pinot noir, and the lighter red is about as food versatile as wines come.
But finding a great bottle can be difficult, as popularity has led to a market flooded with mass-produced, mediocre offerings. The notoriously difficult-to-grow grape needs some coddling in the vineyard. But, when made well, it can showcase the flavors of a specific place like few other grapes.
We’ve rounded up some of the most exciting pinot noirs we’ve tasted this year, all from unexpected wine regions:
Gönc Winery Dirty Deeds pinot noir; Stajerska, Slovenia. Peter Gönc comes from a long line of winemakers but has followed his own path. While he seems comfortable experimenting with many styles, from funky pet-nats to amber-toned orange wines, his pinot noir is classic, graceful and fun to drink. Showcasing brambly berry fruit, earthy spice and soft, floral aromatics, it pairs well with dinner, but is a pleasant “cocktail wine,” particularly nice with a very slight chill.
Enderle & Moll Liaison pinot noir; Baden, Germany. It might surprise some to learn that Germany is the third-largest region in the world for pinot noir production, as it gets more attention for its white wines (we see you, riesling). The pinot noirs of this house are some of the most captivating, savory and elegant German reds we’ve had, made from some of the oldest of the variety’s vines in the country. While not inexpensive, these wines are a steal when compared with the high prices of similar-quality Burgundy.
Huia Vineyards pinot noir; Marlborough, New Zealand. This wine is indeed a value for pinot noir, overdelivering for under $30. Fans of the deeper fruit found in California pinot noirs may appreciate the rich cherry tones of this wine, but fear not, it also has lovely layers of spice and earth in the mix. We recently marveled at the energy and brightness of the 2019 vintage of this wine.
Bodega Chacra Barda pinot noir; Patagonia, Argentina. Overshadowed by malbec production, pinot noir is not common in Argentina. But in the heart of Patagonia, thanks to the cooling breeze that comes off the Andes mountains, Bodega Chacra is proving its potential for world-class pinot noir. Very delicate and mineral-forward, and with bright red fruit, this is an ideal food wine that can tackle fish as beautifully as it does roasted meats or chicken.
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