Trout are found in the tarns and rivulets of Scotland, as they are in the creeks and streams of Georgia, and are a favorite of anglers and chefs. Catching trout requires patience and expertise, as does cooking it.
It came as no surprise when I ordered trout as my entree at Nàdair that it was the jewel in the crown of chef Kevin Gillespie’s reimagined Scottish menu, which offers courses that reflect the seasons.
The shiny skin of a North Georgia rainbow trout hit a hot skillet for precisely the correct amount of time to render it 100% crisp while the sweet, tender flesh remained flaky and earthy-sweet.
Grilled lemon and a pool of brown butter sauce with just the right silkiness and acidity balanced the pleasant bitterness of softened mustard greens. There was a zing of fresh ginger, too, and fried peanut crumbs across the crisp fish skin. With each bite, they added texture and flavor to the buttery citrus. I’m glad trout always is in season.
Nàdair. 1123 Zonolite Road NE, Atlanta. 404-941-7254, nadairatl.com
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