The new Silla del Toro at the revamped Toco Hill shopping center in DeKalb County has all the makings of a successful neighborhood restaurant. It’s cozy, intimate and relatively sophisticated, but not overly trendy. It’s also a great value, with many menu items priced below $10.
Located in a former bank space, this is the second edition of Silla del Toro, following a smaller location on Marietta Square. Despite the larger space, the new restaurant’s layout feels snug and convivial, with noise levels kept under control.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
The owners seem to understand better than most that Spanish tapas is as much about drinking as it is eating. The cocktail list is impressive: tightly edited and full of familiar drinks that employ a few interesting Spanish twists. There’s also a mix-and-match gin and tonic menu featuring interesting Spanish gins and fun garnishes, such as pink peppercorns, grapefruit and basil.
Spain is a proud and prolific wine producer, which is reflected in Silla del Toro’s lengthy, well-organized list. A majority of the selections are offered by the glass, and those can be ordered in either 6- or 9-ounce sizes. The list is topped off with a selection of sherry, a traditional touch that adds to the ambience, even if the fortified wine isn’t particularly popular.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
The food generally is good, if not superlative, and there are a few hidden gems. The first item on the menu, butifarra con mongetes (sausage with creamy white beans), packed a surprising punch. I might have preferred a section of sausage instead of thin slices, but the rich, creamy white beans were fabulous.
Silla del Toro’s ham croquettes were wonderfully cheesy, thanks to the generous incorporation of manchego, while gambas al ajillo (shrimp in garlic) was served swimming in an unbeatable combination of butter, garlic and sherry. Pinchos, or steak skewers, were remarkably tender and served with both sweet romesco sauce and a vinegary Catalan salsa verde. The Andalusian gazpacho was excellent, with a thick, velvety texture and a richness that balanced the zippy acid of the uncooked tomatoes.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Among the large plates were a lovely, whole red snapper, two steaks (rib-eye and skirt steak) and two paellas, one traditional and one vegetarian. I have yet to find a restaurant in Atlanta that serves good paella, and Silla del Toro’s version suffered from the usual problems, with overcooked seafood and no crust on the rice.
Other than the paella, the only frustrating thing about Silla del Toro is that it usually closes at 9 p.m., a time that many Spaniards would consider early for dinner. It might be understandable not to seat people late on a weeknight, but it felt like the staff hustled us out of the restaurant, souring an otherwise excellent service experience.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Perhaps the hours will be extended once Silla del Toro gets fully established at the new location; the original in Marietta stays open later and also serves brunch. For now, the new restaurant does many things well, serving lots of simple but highly satisfying dishes with plenty of good wine and cocktails.
Silla del Toro has a nice formula, and it will be a surprise if the surrounding neighborhoods don’t respond enthusiastically.
SILLA DEL TORO (TOCO HILL LOCATION)
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: Spanish tapas
Service: solid overall, but can feel rushed
Noise level: moderate
Recommended dishes: butifarra con mongetes, patatas bravas, tortilla Española, Andalusian gazpacho, ham croquettes, pulpo parrilla, pinchos, ensalada Española, bacon-wrapped dates, pescado a la parrilla, dulce de leche
Vegetarian dishes: pan con tomate, bocadillo, patatas bravas, tortilla Española, Andalusian gazpacho, Spanish olives and marcona almonds, escalavida, ensalada Española, paella verduras
Alcohol: full bar with mix-and-match gin and tonic menu
Price range: $$ ($50 or less per person, excluding drinks)
Hours: 4-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 4-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
Accessibility: ADA-compliant
Parking: free lot
MARTA: no
Reservations: yes
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: no
Address, phone: 2893 N. Druid Hills Road, Atlanta. 678-310-2065
Website: silladeltoro.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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