Review: Azucar Cuban Cuisine adds to international dining mix in Brookhaven

The patio has transformed asphalt into an oasis, making it the most appealing outdoor spot on the block. The tables are shaded by blue-and-white striped umbrellas, wicker chairs offer comfy seating and it’s all enclosed by planter boxes filled with young palm trees.

Credit: Paula Pontes

Credit: Paula Pontes

The breezy island vibe continues inside. The focal point is a massive magnolia tree that punches through the roof, its leaves and branches trimmed high above the building. The live tree has survived decades of tenants, including the most recent occupant, Righteous Room. Now, it contributes to the look and feel of a shady beachside cafe, complemented by faux vines of greenery dangling from the ceiling between woven-basket pendant lampshades.

The menu is straightforward in its offerings of traditional Cuban snacks, sandwiches, entrees and sides.

Among the appetizers, deep-fried ham croquetas were satisfyingly crispy on the outside, with the filling soft and meaty. The restaurant’s house garlic-cilantro sauce turned a basket of thick yuca fries that lacked for salt into satisfying bites of cassava. Herby, garlicky and with a slight citrus tang, that all-purpose sauce (it’s basically an aioli version of Cuban mojo, the zippy sauce used as a marinade for slow-roasted pork) is a workhorse for dipping and dunking — from french fries to tostones to otherwise dry lechon asado that was somewhat lacking in seasoning.

Credit: Paula Pontes

Credit: Paula Pontes

The palomilla beefsteak, topped with caramelized onions, brought a deeper citrus-marinade flavor than the pork. Like every entree here, it became a hearty meal when rounded out by staple sides of black beans, white rice and sweet plantains.

Azucar offers a selection of eight sandwiches. The Cuban isn’t rave-worthy, but it does check all the boxes for the classic combo of roast pork, sliced ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mayo and mustard (one nit-picky dining partner desired a tad more of the yellow stuff) smashed between slices of golden, crispy bread. The handheld that most impressed was the ropa vieja. With every bite, juices from the deeply flavorful shredded beef dripped out of the crispy, compressed sub and ran down my hand. It’s a lip-smacking, messy sandwich that requires a pile of napkins.

That sandwich is high on my list of reasons to return. So is the coffee. Among Azucar’s selection of six Cuban coffee drinks, the iced cortadito was notably creamy and highly refreshing on a scorching afternoon.

Credit: Paula Pontes

Credit: Paula Pontes

Adults will find a minimal selection of beer and wine while kiddos at the family-friendly establishment can delight in the Cuban soft drinks, including the mate-based Materva, which brought smiles to my Brazilian dining partners, who grew up on the stuff.

The waitstaff was full of warm smiles, and the kitchen did an excellent job of filling orders quickly — a good thing, since the takeout and delivery crowd already has discovered Azucar on Uber Eats and DoorDash, despite the restaurant lacking its own website (which is coming soon).

Azucar might not be breaking any new ground with its Cuban fare, but it has freshened the appeal of the mix of indie restaurants at Old Five Points.

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