These spicy mollusks pack a punch in Midtown

Mussels were given a bad rap in Anthony Bourdain’s behind-the-curtain memoir, “Kitchen Confidential,” in which the late chef said he would eat them only at a restaurant where he knew the chef personally and could verify safe handling of the shellfish.

That is not a concern at the Lawrence, which has a short, focused menu, and an emphasis on attention to detail.

The Lawrence’s deviled mussels are hot, spicy and ridiculously flavorful. The plump, juicy mollusks taste clean, and seem to drink up the rich broth surrounding them. The dish has a bit of Asian influence, including funky ham XO sauce and shishito peppers.