Alta Toro, the new Latin American restaurant in Midtown, is built to last.
The first thing one notices there is the enormous, steampunk tree sculpture by local artist Jonathan Imafidor in the center of the dining room. The sculpture, called Tree of Life, is so heavy, K5 Hospitality CEO Ayman Kamel said, that the city required a civil engineer to inspect the restaurant’s floor and determine that it wouldn’t collapse into the building’s parking deck below.
The scrap-metal tree had to be assembled in sections inside the restaurant’s double-height dining room. Its thick, twisting trunk gives the impression that it could survive a nuclear blast.
Credit: Alta Toro
Credit: Alta Toro
Even if the restaurant doesn’t last, any future business in this space likely would have to be built around the tree. Still, there’s no reason Alta Toro shouldn’t become a Midtown staple; it serves solid food that’s a good value, with entertainment and character to boot.
Even without the sculpture, Alta Toro still would be a fun, vibrant place to dine or grab a drink. Pieces of art that Kamel bought during visits to several countries in South and Central America are on display in the colorful dining room.
The restaurant is open seven days a week, and entertainment is provided at either dinner or brunch on at least five of those days, Kamel said. The entertainment usually is dancers performing flamenco, salsa or with live fire. While the dancers are impossible to miss, they aren’t too intrusive. The performers don’t solicit tips from diners, although Kamel said guests are welcome to tip them at their own discretion.
Credit: Alta Toro
Credit: Alta Toro
Alta Toro’s theatricality extends to the cocktail menu, where multiple drinks involve some sort of tableside fireworks. The el codigo, a mezcal cocktail with an ancho chile-infused tequila floater, has smoke added at the last second by a nefarious-looking device that could be a prop from a Cheech and Chong movie. There’s also a deep tequila selection and a wine list that honors South American terroir.
When it comes to the food at Alta Toro, there are plenty of good options and, while nothing sticks out as being particularly cheap, the restaurant is a surprisingly strong value. However, there were certain dishes, especially among the seafood selections that make up a large portion of the menu, where it seemed the quality wasn’t quite there.
The fish in our tuna flautas tapas and our entree of tuna con calabaza, or a seared tuna steak, lacked flavor. The seafood paella for two seemed to feature the tiniest clams, scallops and mussels available. And hamachi crudo, while beautifully prepared, did not have the flavor or texture needed in such a fish-forward dish.
Credit: Alta Toro
Credit: Alta Toro
Many of the strongest dishes at Alta Toro feature meat, so carnivores are likely to love the restaurant. The empanadas from the tapas section of the menu and the tacos both offered with chicken or beef options, were flavorful without becoming too heavy. The croquetas de manchego were stuffed with incredibly tender pulled pork, while the steak tartare was enlivened by serrano chiles, shallots, cilantro and lime.
The steaks are an excellent value; none was priced above $50, including an 8-ounce wagyu cut. Our medium-rare orders might have been a touch undercooked, but they clearly were high-quality. The restaurant only orders USDA Prime beef, Kamel said.
Credit: Alta Toro
Credit: Alta Toro
Vegetables are a bit of a blind spot on the menu. There are tacos made with cactus, and both the guacamole and little gem salad are excellent, but the only other vegetarian options are side dishes. By swapping out some of the seafood dishes with vegetarian fare, Alta Toro could maintain its price point while diversifying and even improving its menu.
On our first visit, a group of four adults ate enough that no one had any room for dessert, yet the bill, which included multiple cocktails, came out to less than $275 before tip.
We’d had a long, lovely meal and enjoyed the flamenco dancing in the shade of the spectacular Tree of Life. It’s rare to find a restaurant that offers such a unique experience.
Alta Toro might be planted in Midtown for a long time to come.
Credit: Alta Toro
Credit: Alta Toro
ALTA TORO
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: modern Latin American
Service: good
Noise level: moderate to loud
Recommended dishes: croquetas de manchego, tartare de carne, guacamole, little gem salad, empanadas, tuna con calabaza, bife de chorizo, wagyu, cinco leches cake
Vegetarian dishes: guacamole, little gem salad, Azteca tacos, fried plantains, cilantro rice, black beans, patatas bravas, fried yucca, Brussels sprouts
Alcohol: full bar with emphasis on tequila
Price range: $$$
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays; 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-11 p.m. Saturdays; 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sundays
Parking: valet, self-parking with two hours validated, paid street parking
MARTA: Midtown Station
Reservations: recommended
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 33 Peachtree Place NE, Atlanta. 470-995-8676
Website: altatoro.com
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