Call it a speakeasy without the hangover.
In her bar, situated down a winding lane of 19th century, redbrick buildings in Castleberry Hill, Aja Wolfe shook a cocktail mixer one foggy Friday night just as happened hundreds of times elsewhere in Atlanta. Freight trains rolled by softly, but inside the bar, jazz played as patrons chatted with Wolfe while they imbibed what appeared to be whiskey, vodka and mezcal. Except, all of the seemingly sinful libations were, in fact, free of alcohol.
“I wanted to create a sober space that was better than a café but not as intense as a cocktail bar,” said Wolfe of her venue, Sober Social. “I make drinks that are sipworthy.”
As folks are trying to reduce their alcohol consumption, a trend toward sober bars has emerged in Atlanta. The spaces provide an alternative to noisy alcohol bars. Some offer a twist, adding newly legalized hemp products to so-called “NoLos,” or no or very low-alcohol spirits. Doctors say the mocktails are healthier than their alcohol-containing cousins. They aren’t especially worried about trace amounts of alcohol in these drinks, but they do say be mindful of their sugar content.
There are about 3,810 nonalcoholic beverage companies in the United States, according to the U.S. Non-Alcoholic Beverage Industry Database. Wolfe estimates that about 2,500 of them are producing beverages that aim to replicate the taste of popular spirits, wines and beer sans alcohol.
Some of the alcohol-free spirits are paired with infusions of cannabis derivatives that can produce a euphoric high. In October, a new law called the Georgia’s Hemp Farming Act created a legal framework for beverage companies to start producing and selling THC- and CBD-infused beverages in the state, the AJC reported. Prior to the passage of the new law, there were few regulations overseeing THC-infused drinks in Georgia.
THC is the intoxicating compound derived from hemp. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, cannabidiol, or CBD, is a compound found in cannabis plants that is not impairing, meaning it does not cause a “high.”
Bartenders are also adding adaptogens to their cocktail creations. These are synthetic compounds or plant extracts, like ginseng and holy basil. Proponents say adaptogens help the body fight stress, but scientists want to see more long-term safety data before they can raise their glasses.
Spirits made without alcohol often taste like the real thing, but nonalcoholic wines can be hit or miss, said Gracie Barwick, the sommelier of Michelin-starred, Midtown Atlanta restaurant Lazy Betty.
Barwick likes a 0% alcohol, bottled rosé called Odd Bird Rosé, but says she is looking for more alcohol-free wine options served in glass rather than cans. “Wine, with or without alcohol, needs to be in a bottle to have that nice pouring effect,” she said.
Then there are the “near beers.” These nonalcoholic beers are not always completely free of alcohol, so consumers should check the label. Most list their alcohol by volume (ABV) at 0.5%, compared to normal beer which might be 4.5% ABV.
Alcohol-free beer isn’t new, has benefits
Some of the first alcohol-free beers were brewed in the U.S. during the Temperance movement in the early 20th century but fell out of favor once Prohibition ended.
Beer historians say one of the most popular alcohol-free beers was developed in East Germany in the 1970s and sold under the brand names Foxy Light, Berolina, and AUBI (Autofahrer Bier) — because people drank it while driving. A second, lesser-known American option was “Texas Select,” marketed in the Middle East in the 1970s, according to the company’s website.
The low- or no-alcohol beers have been shown to lower LDL cholesterol, according to one study in Spain, where researchers posited that people would see heart benefits if they drank low-alcohol beer. LDL cholesterol can build up on the walls of your blood vessels. This buildup is called “plaque,” and it can cause health problems, such as heart disease and stroke, according to the CDC.
A second study at Cornell University, however, noted that nonalcoholic beer may be at higher risk for foodborne pathogens and spoilage, and suggested they be pasteurized. All beers in bottles and cans are pasteurized, but some craft brewers that sell beers in kegs skip the process.
Doctors, for their part, say anything that helps Americans drink less is probably a good thing.
The U.S. government says alcohol drastically increases the risk of cancer, deadly accidents, heart attack and stroke. The World Health Organization in 2023 went so far as to declare there is no level of alcohol consumption that is safe for our health.
Despite this growing body of evidence, 62% of Americans told Gallup that they still regularly drink alcohol — which is almost exactly the same amount (63%) that Gallup polled in 1939.
Credit: Nicholas Church
Credit: Nicholas Church
Drinking a few drinks per month of alcohol-containing wines, beers and spirits is associated with adverse health outcomes such as high blood pressure, liver disease, cancer and mood disorders, said Dr. Nicholas Church, founder of Somerset Medical, a concierge, primary care medical practice located in Old Fourth Ward.
Church says go for that mocktail — within reason.
“Mocktails are helping to change societal norms and reduce peer pressure, which may help some people lower their alcohol intake,” Church said. “However, they often come with a high sugar content. In my practice, I encourage my patients to be mindful that mocktails might not be as healthy as they seem, particularly for those with conditions such as prediabetes.”
While the health effects of alcohol are well studied, less is known about THC and CBD. There is conflicting evidence that these drugs carry both health benefits but some health risks too. “While they may help chronic pain, seizures and nausea and vomiting for example, there is also some risk of addiction, mental and physical harms,” he said.
The risks may be amplified in younger or pregnant people and those taking certain medications. “I would also note that these products are not well regulated, leaving open the question of quality and consistency of dosing,” Church added.
Back at Sober Social, Marcel Walker enjoyed a flight of drinks: four, 50 mL glasses containing cocktails made with faux whiskey, a gin-like drink with real blueberries, zero-alcohol tequila and jalapeños, and an Espresso shot mixed with a Kentucky 74 bourbon alternative.
The Atlanta resident said the alcohol-free spirits and tranquil location were a welcome change from loud, Friday-night bars.
“This is my second time here,” he said. “I’m doing dry November, and I thought I’d come back. It beats going to a bar with ginger beer or Red Bull.”
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