Nan Thai Buckhead does not feel significantly changed from its predecessor, Chai Yo Modern Thai, which was a good restaurant, although overlooked and underappreciated in the bottom of a Buckhead office building surrounded by bigger, glitzier dining spots.
The restaurant space has been refreshed lightly — not a full-blown renovation — and some menu items have carried over.
That is good news for anyone who loved Chai Yo — or the original Nan Thai, which remains open on Spring Street in Midtown. Fans of those places will recognize and enjoy this restaurant.
The bigger question is whether the rebranding to Nan Thai Buckhead will give this new version the staying power of the original.
Credit: Dominique White
Credit: Dominique White
Nan Thai Buckhead clearly is a personal endeavor for chef DeeDee Niyomkul, whose parents opened the original Nan Thai more than 20 years ago. Photos of her father, Charlie Niyomkul, who died in April 2021, and her mother, chef Nan Niyomkul, are displayed prominently at the Buckhead location.
During the holiday season, Nan Thai Buckhead’s rebranding appeared to be working, with the place bustling, if not packed. Still, it’s likely always to be challenged by its location on the bottom level of the One Buckhead Plaza tower. It’s not visible from either Peachtree Street or West Paces Ferry Road.
Also, visitors should make sure to take advantage of valet parking, which is validated at Nan Thai; self-parking in the office tower’s deck is confusing and expensive.
Credit: Brandon Amato
Credit: Brandon Amato
When beginning a meal at Nan Thai Buckhead, it’s hard to go wrong with any of the dumplings. The toong tong, or golden pouch dumplings, were particular standouts with their shatteringly crisp wrappers. Larb kai, a bracingly spicy salad of minced chicken, mint and lettuce, surprised with its assertiveness. Crispy calamari with three-flavor chili sauce, a carryover from the original Nan Thai, was one of those addictively crunchy appetizers that often leads to a second order for the table.
Not all dishes lived up to the hype, though. The flavor of the tom kha soup — highlighted on the menu as Niyomkul’s specialty — was fine, but it arrived lukewarm, with the chunks of lobster still chilled.
The same problem was repeated on crab fried rice served on a separate visit, when the nest of lump crab remained cold atop the hot rice. There are plenty of ways to enjoy crab cold, but this wasn’t one of them.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Like Chai Yo before it, many of Nan Thai Buckhead’s entrees are sculptural and showy, adding a welcome touch of whimsy to dinner. The panang wagyu beef cheeks were as wonderful as ever, the meat spoon-tender in a succulent red curry sauce thickened with coconut milk. The dish still was served in a miniature wok kept warm over a flame, too.
A seafood trio special that featured lobster, shrimp and scallops presented the lightly fried lobster tail meat bursting out of its shell. And flakes of gold leaf gleamed atop the towering, nearly perfect coconut cake.
As might be expected considering the location and all the showmanship, Nan Thai Buckhead can be pricey. Entrees range between $30 and $45, but specials can climb higher. The seafood trio was $82, and cocktails hover around $18.
For the most part, Nan Thai Buckhead is worth it. The restaurant remains romantic and intriguing, and there are plenty of options on the menu for budget-conscious diners.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Those who are cynical might view the restaurant’s rebranding as merely a facelift, and it’s difficult to say that the new Nan Thai Buckhead provides an experience distinct from Chai Yo.
However, the Niyomkul family has an important legacy in Atlanta dining, and if this name change helps keep a locally owned, family-run restaurant running in the heart of Buckhead, that’s a good thing.
NAN THAI BUCKHEAD
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: modern Thai
Service: solid and professional
Noise level: loud
Recommended dishes: toong tong (golden pouch dumplings), pla muk tod (fried calimari), larb kai, poh pia tod (crispy vegetable spring rolls), whole red snapper, panang wagyu beef cheeks, geah yung (grilled lamb chops), pla kra tiem (pan-fried sea bass), coconut cake, Thai iced tea creme brulee
Vegetarian dishes: poh pia tod, poh pia sod, mushroom wonton soup ravioli, sticky rice, crispy Brussels sprouts, sauteed tofu and vegetables, papaya salad
Alcohol: full bar
Price range: $50-$100 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. Fridays; 5-11 p.m. Saturdays
Accessibility: fully ADA-compliant, with street-level entry
Parking: valet with validation or paid deck
Nearest MARTA station: Buckhead (1 mile)
Reservations: recommended
Outdoor dining: no
Takeout: no
Address, phone: 3050 Peachtree Road, Atlanta. 404-464-7980
Website: nanthai.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter
Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on X and @ajcdining on Instagram.
About the Author
