Natalie Bianca, a new restaurant in southwest Atlanta’s Cascade Heights neighborhood, has plenty of soul, but what it really seems to need is more bodies.
Named after a late friend of owner Jamshad “Jaamy” Zarnegar, Natalie Bianca honors the memory of its namesake with above-average food, drink and service. The staff is welcoming and friendly, and the warmly-lit dining room feels cozy and relaxing.
But during two dinners there, the combination sadly had not enticed many other diners.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
Many of the dishes, such as fried green tomatoes, clearly are Southern, but you’re just as likely to find flavors from France, Italy or Mexico. The prices are reasonable, especially considering the portion sizes. Entrees are in the $24-$28 range, and most easily could feed two people.
And for $22 you can get a sample of every appetizer on the menu except the potato onion pancakes. The latter might be the best small plate on the menu — charred and served with multiple savory sauces, like a good scallion pancake you might find at an Asian restaurant. The other standout appetizers were the delicately tender polenta cakes and the impressively flavorful black bean-stuffed crepe.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Diners also should try Natalie Bianca’s impressively sophisticated beverage selection, including its refined cocktail list. The Natalie had a balanced bitterness that will impress Negroni lovers, while the cognac-based For Liz will appeal to anyone who enjoys a Manhattan. However, the restaurant’s version of an espresso martini is less traditional, leaning more to the sweet and creamy side. All cocktails are priced at $14.
The wine list also has some interesting choices, including a crémant from Limoux, one of the few wine regions that can claim to have soil and weather similar to that of Champagne. The menu’s only rosé — light, but fragrant — hails from Greece, and the rest of the far-ranging list includes a vinho verde from Portugal, riesling from Germany and cabernet sauvignon from the state of Washington.
The entrees really are the star of the show, though, with a couple of options that far exceeded expectations. The adobo salmon especially knocked my socks off; the description sounds like something you might cook at home — a salmon filet coated in a Caribbean-style, dry adobo rub and grilled — but the execution was near perfect: the interior moist and tender and the edges blackened and crispy. It’s one of the better pieces of salmon I’ve had in some time. It’s notable that salmon also shows up in several other dishes at the restaurant.
Another excellent entree is the shrimp pasta, a dish I typically would avoid at a restaurant that doesn’t make its own noodles. But skipping it would have been a mistake. The dish was a surprising flavor bomb, thanks to an outrageously flavorful, creamy garlic sauce. Also, the sauteed shrimp were nicely cooked, with a firm but pliant texture; and the toasted breadcrumbs held up well in the sauce, providing a satisfying crunch.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
Among other dishes, the beef short rib and beef burger were tasty, but weren’t on the level of the seafood. On the other hand, a quesadilla with black beans and salmon — a bit of an odd combo — was surprisingly flavorful, with plenty of grilled onions and peppers.
It’s hard to evaluate the service at Natalie Bianca. One dinner was fine, although the staff came by our table a little too often since there was hardly anyone else to serve. There were more customers the second time around, but a troublesome table near us complained and sent back a dish. With the server’s attention diverted, our meal dragged on much too long.
Natalie Bianca is a very good restaurant that deserves more customers. The menu has some very high peaks, the beverage program is better than many and the servers are eager to please. For anyone in that area of Atlanta, it would be worthwhile getting to know Natalie Bianca.
Credit: Henri Hollis
Credit: Henri Hollis
NATALIE BIANCA
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: mainly Southern
Service: solid, but it occasionally lagged
Noise level: low
Recommended dishes: polenta, potato onion pancakes, black bean crepes, Caesar salad, beef short rib, shrimp pasta, adobo salmon, salmon and black bean quesadilla, churros, chocolate pecan pie
Vegetarian dishes: fried green tomatoes, polenta, potato onion pancakes, black bean crepes, harvest salad, Caesar salad, black bean soup, vegan entree plate
Alcohol: full bar with a short, solid wine list
Price range: $25-$50 per person, excluding drinks
Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 4-9 p.m. Sundays
Accessibility: fully ADA-compliant, with street-level entrance
Parking: free on street nearby
Nearest MARTA station: none
Reservations: taken via Resy, but not necessary
Outdoor dining: yes
Takeout: yes
Address, phone: 2317 Cascade Road SW, Atlanta. 470-312-2022
Website: instagram.com/nataliebiancaatl
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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