At Anis Café & Bistro, you can sit sort of outside even though you are inside. You can dip tufts of toothsome French bread into the perfect broth of mussels in a dish of moules mariniere. You can sip a glass of pink cava at the bar with a dog of questionable origins.
What you can’t do is have an altogether bad meal.
Because although there are some things from this tiny French bistro — namely escargot with polenta and “crushed” tomatoes and a mushy pear tart — that aren’t worth repeating, most of what you’ll experience here, from its tidy wine list to its odd, ad hoc atmosphere, is delightfully enjoyable.
Nestled long ago — 1994 — into a former house (it was Ma Maison prior) in the area of Buckhead between Peachtree and Piedmont from East Paces Ferry to behind Pharr Road that sprouts tiny restaurants, salons and boutiques like dandelions, Anis is by any account a little odd looking.
The interior (and exterior) design looks as if Andy Warhol and Edie Sedgwick dropped in on Abbie Hoffman’s living room and decided to decorate. Some of that has to do with the layout of small, winding rooms that extend to a popular outdoor patio; some of it has to do with odd splashes of color in the main dining room mixing with hippie knickknacks, wallpaper and upholstery that appear to have come from anywhere and everywhere. It gives a sense of propriety, as if you are dining in some really hip old person’s house. Make that a really hip Francophile’s house, since almost all the collectibles, from maps to license plates, offer Provencal flair.
The cuisine, on the other hand, varies little from its classic bistro beginnings, and it’s easy to see why Anis, even after so many years, is still ever popular with its neighbors.
Those mussels are the pinnacle of what’s expected from this classic dish: White wine melds with just enough cream to soften its acidity, while garlic and parsley bring high and low notes of flavor. A basket of bread will be brought and replenished for lots of much-needed dipping.
Merquez sausages make for a tasty nibble, smeared through spicy mustard and onions a la Grecque, soft and savory with flavor. But scallops hold the most allure, roasted and served with thinly shaved fennel and a not-too-creamy saffron sauce.
Board specials often include lamb or fish, and flounder — which is starting to show up again on menus — is light and feathery, with hints of butter lurking within manly sized spring ramps. From the menu, veal steak seems succulently braised, making it tender and juicy over buttery potatoes, however gratuitous they may seem.
Owner Arnaud Michel has kept the menu delightfully uncomplicated through the years, with no affected inventions or surprises — just solid bistro fare.
The wait staff gets its inspiration from the French as well — as often brusque and hurried as attentive and cordial. Some of the servers seem to rely on the expectation that everyone is a regular.
By dessert, you may be so full of good French bread that you can’t drum up the desire for something sweet. But if not, profiteroles are warm and inviting, served with melting vanilla ice cream (from Jake’s) and chocolate “syrup.” Avoid the pear tart; the pastry is mushy, not crisp, and the tart is boring. Who wants a pear tart in April anyway?
It’s just as easy to sit and finish a glass of wine, catch up with an old friend and pet the dog.
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Anis Cafe & Bistro
Overall rating:
Food: French bistro
Service: Sometimes attentive and cordial; sometimes hurried and abrupt
Price range: $$-$$$
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Hours of operation: Open for lunch Monday - Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Open for dinner Monday - Thursday 6 to 10 p.m., Friday - Saturday 6 to 10:30 p.m. and Sunday 6 to 9 p.m. Open for Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Best dishes: Moules mariniere, flounder, veal steak, merquez sausage, scallops with saffron sauce
Vegetarian selections: Salads, some sides
Children: Lunch and early evening
Parking: Complimentary valet or on street
Reservations: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes, but a wheelchair would be difficult to manage without help and there is no bathroom access
Smoking: Bar only
Noise level: High, especially with live music playing
Patio: Yes
Takeout: Yes
Address, telephone: 2974 Grandview Ave. N.E., 404-233-9889
Web site: www.anisbistro.com
Pricing code: $$$$$ means more than $75; $$$$ means $75 and less; $$$ means $50 and less; $$ means $25 and less; $ means $15 and less. The price code represents a typical full-course meal for one excluding drinks.
Key to AJC ratings
Outstanding
Sets the standard for fine dining in the region.
Excellent
One of the best in the Atlanta area.
Very good
Merits a drive if you're looking for this kind of dining.
Good
A worthy addition to its neighborhood, but food may be hit and miss.
Fair
Food is more miss than hit.
Restaurants that do not meet these criteria may be rated Poor.
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