A 26-mile-long pencil-thin barrier island hugging the North Carolina coast, Topsail Island was dubbed "Mayberry By the Sea" by journalist Ray McAllister in his award-winning book covering the area's history and allure.
The three island communities of Surf City, Topsail Beach and North Topsail have a small town feel, with mom-and-pop businesses far outnumbering corporate chains and a coast free of high-rise condo development. Atlantans who miss the Panama City Beach Gulf Coast of decades ago will be enchanted by the old-school, slower pace of Topsail.
Access to the island is limited to two bridges, one an iconic old-fashioned swing bridge leading into Surf City that spins on an axis every hour to allow boat traffic through the Intracoastal Waterway. Once on Topsail, you will encounter only one traffic light on the entire island.
History: From pirates to the space age
It is said Blackbeard once sailed these waters. The name Topsail (pronounced "Topsul" by locals) is a reference to pirates who once hid in the sound, poised to pillage merchant ships. Lookouts learned to spot the top sail of a pirate ship hiding in the brackish backwater. Later, in 1946-1948, Topsail was home to Operation Bumblebee, an important (and at the time top secret) Navy missile testing operation that helped usher in the space age. There are seven distinctive observation towers from the era on the island. The towers are locally famous, some having been incorporated into private homes, others still standing abandoned like concrete sentries overlooking the beach. The old missile launching pad is now part of the patio at the Jolly Roger Inn & Pier in Topsail Beach, and the control tower and missile assembly building stand nearby. Some of these structures are now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Off-season activities
Though the water is too chilly for swimming, in the off-season the climate is still mild enough for fishing and strolling the beach. Each of the three towns has a long pier stretching nearly a thousand feet into the Atlantic. Bait and tackle shops are located at the foot of each pier. Surf casting from the beach also is allowed. A saltwater fishing license is required to fish, easily obtainable at most tackle shops, including East Coast Sports in Surf City, a company that also offers fishing charters. Kayaking the tidal creeks and coastal estuaries on the mainland side of the island is a popular activity, even during the cooler months. Kayak rentals are available from Herring's Outdoor Sports in Surf City. For cyclists, bike paths line much of the island and vehicle traffic is light. Birdwatchers will delight at the plentiful migrating waterfowl that make a stop on Topsail before continuing south for winter.
Sea turtles
The beaches of Topsail are a prime nesting spot for sea turtles, with the height of nesting season being the summer months. But nests are still spotted well into fall. The communities of Topsail go out of their way to ensure their island remains a sea turtle sanctuary, which means turtles always have the right of way, and ocean side lighting is kept to a minimum to keep from disorienting mothers and their spawn. The nonprofit Karen Beasley Sea Turtle Rescue and Rehabilitation Center in Topsail Beach is a sea turtle hospital that often opens its doors to the public. When the center releases a rehabilitated sea turtle back into the ocean it's a big deal, drawing huge crowds. www.seaturtlehospital.org
Getting there
Topsail Island is about a seven and a half hour drive from downtown Atlanta via I-20 East.
Where to stay
Jolly Roger Inn & Pier. Oceanfront motel next to a fishing pier. Rates start at $69. 803 Ocean Blvd., Topsail Beach. 910-328-4616, www.jollyrogertopsailbeach.com
Tiffany's. One of the larger motels on the island, within easy walking distance of the beach. Fall specials start at $190 for two nights. 1502 N. New River Drive, Surf City. 910-328-1397, www.tiffanysmotel.com
Where to eat
Island Delights. Made-to-order burgers, sandwiches and pitas and 22 flavors of hand-dipped ice cream. Burgers start at $3.25. 316 N. New River Drive, Surf City. 910-328-1868, www.islanddelightssurfcity.com
The Bistro at Justbaked. Seafood, steaks and pasta dishes and a changing, seasonal menu based on fresh, organic and locally sourced ingredients. Dinner entrees start at $10.99. 205 S. Topsail Drive, Surf City. 910-328-3150, www.topsailbistro.com
Visitor information
Greater Topsail Area Chamber of Commerce and Tourism. 1-800-626-2780, www.topsailcoc.com. The Surf City Welcome and Visitors Center is located at 102 N. Shore Drive, Surf City. 910-328-2716, www.townofsurfcity.com
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