Visitors to Laura Plantation (originally DuParc Plantation) in Vacherie, La., sometimes arrive expecting to hear stories imbued with "Gone With the Wind"-style romance, according to current owner and tour guide Norman Marmillion. But their magnolias and moonlight fantasy of 19th century plantation life is quickly dispelled as they tour this Creole sugar plantation on the River Road in St. James Parish.
"They expect big white columns and women in hoop skirts," Marmillion said. "Ever since the release of 'Gone With the Wind,' the most widespread image of the South and plantations has been that of Tara, so visitors are surprised to find an authentic visual image and a way of life quite different from that of the book and movie. We go beyond 'Gone with the Wind' romance to real history."
French-speaking Creoles had their own culture, which was vastly different from that of their Anglo-American neighbors, who, as many Creoles saw it, encroached on their territory with the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.
Tours are based largely on the memoirs of fourth-generation plantation owner Laura Locoul Gore (1861-1963), after whom the plantation was named. Her "Memories of the Old Plantation Home" gives a detailed account of plantation life that was strictly regimented and isolating. These tales are alternately humorous, tragic, inspiring and chilling, but they are always entertaining thanks to Marmillion's riveting storytelling style.
One heart-wrenching tale is that of a young slave girl, Anna, who was Laura's servant until she married. The story goes that one day as Laura's mother, Desiree, was rocking Laura to sleep, she heard Anna's desperate cries and ran to see what the source of her anguish was. Laura's grandmother, Elisabeth, who was the long-reigning mistress of the plantation, was bargaining with a slave trader, attempting to sell Anna and keep her child. Desiree was incensed by her mother-in-law's callousness and begged her husband, Emile, to intervene. He did — saving Anna but incurring the wrath of his iron-fisted mother.
The principal house at Laura Plantation is not the typical white, Greek Revival-style mansion so often associated with antebellum-era plantations. Built in 1805 by slave labor, the cypress board house is painted bright ochre, red and green, making it as colorful as the characters who once lived there. It was raised as protection against the unleveed Mississippi River. In spite of its size, (17,000 square feet, including the above-ground basement and attic) the Creole-style architecture makes the home appear quite modest. A defining feature of many Creole houses, including Laura, is the gender-specific parlors. The women's parlor was on the upriver side of the house, and the men's parlor was on the downriver side.
In keeping with Creole plantation custom, the house is furnished in a relatively simple style. The family did most of their entertaining at their home in New Orleans during the social season (January to March) where furnishings were more elaborate.
Unlike their Anglo neighbors, Creoles had a long tradition of women managing plantations, and Laura Plantation was run by a series of strong-willed matriarchs. They were genteel ladies and the aristocrats of Louisiana society, but they didn't spend their days fanning themselves on fainting couches while servants saw to their comfort. Some had a tough-as-nails demeanor and were known for their business savvy and sharp negotiating skills.
Several outbuildings and other structures remain on the property, 11 of which are on the National Register of Historic Places. One-hundred-and-eighty-six slaves once worked on the plantation, and six of the original slave cabins remain.
The original slave register, obtained from Laura's relatives in France, miraculously survived a devastating electrical fire at the plantation in 2004. Marmillion says it's always been the item he cherishes most because it offers a glimpse into the individual personalities of enslaved laborers, capturing their humanity in a very authentic way.
"I found it at 2 a.m. (after the fire), and I picked it up and ran back to my car, holding it tight, and cried," Marmillion said.
Creole plantation life was defined by familial insularity and isolation from mainstream America. As the tour reveals, Laura found the lifestyle so unbearably suffocating that when she was 14 years old she begged her parents to send her to school in New Orleans instead of being educated by a governess on the plantation.
They reluctantly agreed, setting Laura on a path that opened her mind to progressive ideas and ultimately led to her rejecting her predestined role as plantation mistress. She learned to speak English and made up her mind to be a modern American woman and part of mainstream culture. In a time and place when family duty came before individual fulfillment, Laura made the radical decision to sell the plantation and marry Charles Gore of St. Louis, leaving Louisiana and the ghosts of her eccentric ancestors behind forever.
If You Go
Vacherie, La., is about 50 miles west of New Orleans.
Tours
Laura Plantation: Tours are offered daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission: Adults $15, student (ages 6-17) $5, child(age 5 and under) free, AAA adult $13, military adult $13. 2247 La. 18, Vacherie, LA 70090; (888) 799-7690; www.lauraplantation.com.
Guides
There are many plantations to tour in the area, so make a day of it. Several New Orleans tour companies offer transportation to Laura Plantation and several other plantations.
Tours by Isabelle: 1-877-665-8687; www.toursbyisabelle.com.
Old River Road Plantation Adventures: (504) 671-8687; www.plantationadventure.com.
Where to stay
The Historic French Market Inn: In the heart of the French Quarter, this recently restored 84-room inn is a change of pace from the big chain hotels. Rates: $99-$149. 501 Rue Decatur, New Orleans, LA 70130; 1-888-538-5651; www.frenchmarketinn.com.
Oak Alley Plantation Restaurant and Inn: Overnight guests stay in cottages on the grounds. Rates: $130-$410. Tours are offered daily. Admission: Adults (19 and older) $15, Students (13-18) $7.50, Children: (6-12) $4.50. 3645 La. 18 (Great River Road), Vacherie, LA 70090; (800) 442-5539; www.oakalleyplantation.com.
Where to Eat
Bourbon House: Open for lunch and dinner. Entrees $19-$86. If you love oysters, visit the Bourbon House oyster bar during happy hour. From 4 to 6 p.m. you can enjoy oysters on the half shell for only $1 each. Pair them with specially priced wines or $3 Abita Amber draft beer. 144 Bourbon St., New Orleans, LA 70130; (504) 522-0111; www.bourbonhouse.com.
The Grapevine Café & Gallery: Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays. Creole and Cajun cuisine. Entrees $13.95-$26.95. 211 Railroad Ave., Donaldsonville, LA 70346; (225) 473-8463; www.grapevinecafeandgallery.com.
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