In their hurry to get to the coast, many visitors bypass one of the seaside’s most charming towns. Beaufort, S.C., sandwiched between Charleston an hour to the north and Savannah an hour to the south, isn’t always a final coastal destination. But it’s well worth the stop for a few days of relaxing, dining, sightseeing and beach-combing.
Boasting one of the biggest natural harbors in the country, Beaufort traces its history back to the early 1500s when Spanish explores first arrived on North American shores. At various times, it was home to Spanish, French and British. It’s also one of the few places where visitors can hear Gullah, a melange of English and African tongues used by slaves on the town’s surrounding plantations. Today, Beaufort’s location along the Intercoastal Waterway, its proximity to the Atlantic beaches and its historic charm combine to make it a great spot for touring, dining and unwinding.
Stroll along the city’s waterfront and main streets, where older wooden structures shoulder up to newer brick additions. Take a walking tour of the historic district, dotted with colorful clapboard houses and churches with garden-like graveyards. Pedal a bike out to the lighthouse pier and take in the view. Get off your feet with a carriage ride or a boat tour. Or simply sit on a porch and watch the Spanish moss sway lazily from the live oak trees. And if you want to spend the day out of town, there are golf courses and beaches nearby to entertain.
When the weather cools in September, the town bustles with an assortment of festivals and events. This year, the annual Beaufort Shrimp Festival will fill up the streets Oct. 2-3, followed by the Fall Festival of Houses and Gardens Oct. 23-25 and the Guild of Beaufort Galleries Fall Art Walk on Oct. 24. An annual season highlight is the kick-off of the holiday season, with a Night on the Town, Light up the Night Boat Parade and a Christmas Parade all scheduled between Dec. 4-6.
Attractions
Penn Center: 16 Martin Luther King Drive, St. Helena Island, 843-838-2432; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Saturday; free admission. www.penncenter.com. The Penn School was one of the first in the country to educate freed slaves. Its history dates to antebellum days, when it was founded by abolitionists from Pennsylvania. A museum on the grounds features the history of the center as well as changing exhibits. A gift shop sells a variety of local books, crafts and products.
Beaufort National Cemetery, 1601 Boundary St., 843-524-3925; sunrise to sunset daily; free admission. Stroll the grounds of this Civil War-era cemetery that is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Marine Corps Recruit Depot, Parris Island, 283 Boulevard de France, Parris Island, 843-228-2166; 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. with last admittance at 4 p.m.; free admission. www.mcrdpi.usmc.mil. This base is headquarters for the Marines’ eastern recruiting region, so a walk or drive through the grounds will surround visitors with the sights and sounds of recruits in training. Visit the 8,000-square-foot museum filled with exhibits about the Corps and the island. A valid driver’s license, vehicle registration and insurance documentation is required to get on the base.
Walking tours: Visit www.beaufort-sc.com and download a free brochure that will guide you past many of the town’s historic homes, memorials, churches and even a tavern or two.
Where to stay
The Beaufort Inn, 809 Port Republic St., 888-522-0250; www.thebeaufortinn.com. Rates from $149 to $450; packages are available. This inn features 25 guest rooms spread across nine separate buildings that take up most of a city block. The anchor is the 1889 three-story, pink home that has been operating as an inn since 1936. The kitchen is in the capable hands of former Iron Chef competitor Christopher Hewitt, who serves up full Southern breakfasts each day.
The Rhett House Inn, 1009 Craven St., 888-480-9530; www.therhetthouseinn.com. Rates from $149 to $289. A block from the marina, this 1820s plantation house features classic white columns and a wrap-around porch where guests can indulge in the homemade sweets and full breakfasts. There are 17 rooms in the main house and seven others in a guest cottage that dates to the 1850s. Fireplaces, balconies and spa tubs are available.
Sleep Inn Beaufort, 2523 Boundary St., 843-522-3361; www.sleepinn.com. Rates start at $69.99. About a mile from the heart of town, this modern facility features free Wi-Fi, an outdoor pool, hot tub, fitness center and breakfast.
Where to eat
Saltus River Grill, 802 Bay St., 843-379-3474; www.saltus rivergrill.com. Entrees: $21-$32. Enjoy views of the Beaufort River while sampling the menu of Sea Island shrimp with bacon, fried lobster tails, braised pork belly and foie gras-stuffed chicken breast.
Plums Restaurant, 904 1/2 Bay St.; 843-525-1946; www.plumsrestaurant.com. Entrees: $15 to $23. A few blocks from Saltus, this spot for lunch and dinner also takes in views of the water and downtown. Start with Tabasco garlic shrimp crab and fill up on fresh tuna, salmon, roasted duck or flat iron steak.
Blackstone’s Café, 205 Scott St.; 843-524-4330; www.blackstonescafe.com. Entrees: $5-$9. This casual eatery, popular with the locals, features oversized sandwiches, shrimp and grits and seafood, as well as classic breakfast fare.
If you go: 288 miles, 4.5 hours.
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