Asheville: Detour off Parkway for sensory feasts

Just outside Asheville at milepost 382 is one of the Parkway's most popular stops: the Folk Art Center, home of the Southern Highland Craft Guild where galleries and shops provide an overview of western North Carolina art, craft and culture. Craft demonstrations every day. 9 a.m. -6 p.m. through December. Coming up: 30th annual Heritage Weekend Sept. 18-19, with music, storytelling, food and demonstrations of pottery making, basket weaving, canning, quilting and spinning. 828-298-7928, www.southernhighlandguild.org.

The Biltmore

Visitors return to George Vanderbilt's estate to ogle its treasures and tour the winery, residence, markets, restaurants and grounds. Timeless appeal is spiced up occasionally, and next up is the Carpet of Flowers. From Aug. 20 to Sept. 12, 155,000 brilliant flowers will be laid out rug-like forming a design based on a La Farge window George inherited from his father. Daytime viewings are included in estate admission ($60), and special evening viewing events are available separately ($65). Advance tickets: 1-800-411-3812, www.biltmore.com.

Biltmore Village

Just outside the estate gates, Biltmore Village is a laid-back, high-end mix of shopping, restaurants, hotels and galleries. Bring plastic or settle for window-shopping: Tony shops include Bellagio, as much art gallery as women's clothier, where some handpainted wearables have four-figure pricetags. The village also includes chains like Talbots and one-of-a-kind shops. Breakfast, lunch or dinner at the much-loved Corner Kitchen will fortify any walkabout.

Around another corner, luxurious year-old accommodations blend unobtrusively into the village -- so much so, I drove right by the Grand Bohemian. Part of Georgia Tech alum Richard C. Kessler’s uber-eclectic hotel collection, every surface shows his touch. Attention deficit is rewarded: Leather-backed chairs are inset with surprising florals, crystals dangle from massive antler lighting, and various taxidermies affixed to the warm woods and stone add to the Seussian surrealism. Everywhere there’s delight. In the hallways upstairs, tiled alcoves in corners house spotlit busts. Dining in the Red Stag Grill (yes, those are stuffed red stags behind the check-in desk) is an adventure as well. Try the elk or sea bass. Have calamari later in the lounge while listening to a local musician. Kessler is a ravenous art collector and fills his boutique hotels (among them are two in Savannah and one is planned for Sandy Springs) with canvases, carvings, statuary and creative décor. A small, dark room off the dining room that can be reserved for parties or business meetings comes alive with the flip of a switch, one wall dominated by a piece of quartz, backlit in red. Inside the hotel is an art gallery, which schedules trunk shows and visits by featured artists.

Festivals coming up

In addition to its permanent wealth of galleries and restaurants, Asheville indulges fascinations with the arts, handicraft, food and wine during special events. Two big ones are coming up this month:The 38th annual Village Arts and Craft Fair Aug. 7-8. John Cram, owner of New Morning Gallery and Bellagio in Biltmore Village, stages the work of more than 100 artists on the grounds of the Cathedral of All Souls in the historic village. Admission is free to the fair, which runs 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Aug. 7  and noon to 6 p.m. Aug. 8. 9 Swan St., Asheville. Information: www.newmorninggallerync.com/avacf.html.

WNC Magazine Asheville Wine & Food Festival Grand Tasting Aug.14.  More than 60 wineries, music, food and Asheville's first "Iron Chef"-style Chefs Challenge. Since May, chefs have been competing for the chance to go head-to-head in the finals, patterned after Blowing Rock’s popular Fire on the Rock contest. Expo Center at the WNC Agricultural Grounds Campus, across from Asheville Regional Airport off I-26. $35 in advance, $40 at the door. 1301 Fanning Bridge Road, Fletcher, N.C.  Tickets, information: www.wncmagazine.com/wineandfood/challenge.

If you go

There are several driving routes from Atlanta to Asheville, the quickest taking about 3 1/2 hours. Travel north on I-85 to I-185 at Greenville, S.C., then U.S. 25 to I-26W toward U.S. 74W. Take Asheville exit onto I-240E. Then take Asheville (I-26W) exit onto I-240 E. Take exit 5A, Merrimon Avenue, then left on U.S. 25 in Asheville.

Information

Information: www.exploreasheville.com

Where to stay

The Grand Bohemian: From $169. Ask about packages including Biltmore admission.  11 Boston Way, Asheville. 828-505-2949, www.bohemianhotelasheville.com.

Grove Park Inn: Think you don't have time to get away to Asheville? Well, the president and first family found time for a spring break this year, and they stayed at the venerable inn and resort. From $199. 290 Macon Ave., Asheville. 1-800-438-5800, www.groveparkinn.com.

Hilton Asheville Biltmore Park: Special package for Wine & Food Festival, Aug. 14,  $189, includes shuttle to and from event, two event admission tickets, accommodations and Sunday brunch for two. 43 Town Square Blvd., Asheville>. 828-209-2700, www.biltmorefarmshotels.com/hilton.

Where to eat

The Corner Kitchen: Lauded with good reason. And yes, the Obamas ate here. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, Saturday-Sunday brunch. Breakfast, lunch and brunch, about $8-$10; dinner entrees $17-$26. 3 Boston Way, Asheville. 828-274-2439, www.thecornerkitchen.com.

Early Girl Eatery: Who can argue with shrimp and grits for breakfast? No dinner service Mondays. Breakfast to $9.95; lunch $6.50-$10.45; dinner from $10.95. 8 Wall St., Asheville. 828-259-9292, www.earlygirleatery.com.

Tupelo Honey Cafe: Always busy, two locations. Downtown, 12 College St., Asheville, 828-255-4863; southside (closed Mondays), 1829 Hendersonville Road, Asheville, 828-505-7676. Breakfast from $6.75; lunch $6.95-$21.95; dinner entrees $12.95-$26.95. www.tupelohoneycafe.com.