James Beard award-winning chef Anne Quatrano stays busy with Atlanta restaurants Bacchanalia, Star Provisions and W.H. Stiles Fish Camp.
But after 25 years, Quatrano and her chef husband, Clifford Harrison, recently closed one of their most beloved spots, Floataway Cafe, when a new landlord took over the building and raised the rent.
“The increase was reasonable, but that in conjunction with how much we have to pay people, and how much more we’re paying for product, makes the business untenable for us,” Quatrano explained, adding, “It’s kind of sad, but we’re OK.”
On the brighter side, the couple’s original fine-dining concept, Bacchanalia, will celebrate its 30th anniversary this month. The restaurant has become such a special occasions destination that it got a shoutout in 2017 bank-heist flick “Baby Driver” as the spot for “the finest wining and dining in Atlanta.”
“We opened in January of 1993, on Piedmont Road, right across from Bones, and we were there until 1999,” Quatrano remembered. “Then we were on Howell Mill Road until 2017, when we moved to Ellsworth Industrial.”
Quatrano’s first cookbook, “Summerland: Recipes for Celebrating With Southern Hospitality” (Rizzoli, $32.67), was published in 2013 as an ode to the farm that’s been in her family for five generations, and still supplies produce for her restaurants.
Coming soon, a new self-published bound photo book with Atlanta photographer Amanda Greene will record Bacchanalia’s history and include some favorite recipes.
“It’s something to document the milestone,” Quatrano said. “There will be lots of photos, and mostly of our staff doing what they do, because that’s what’s kept Bacchanalia around for 30 years.”
Among the restaurant’s classics, Crab Fritters is by far the most popular dish, and the most requested recipe. Dubbed Hot Pepper Essence, the sauce for the fritters is a quirky but perfect combo of maple syrup, lime juice and fish sauce.
“It’s the pairing of the richness of the shellfish with that sauce that kind of cuts it,” Quatrano said. “It’s spicy and umami, and then we dribble in vanilla oil, which rounds it all out in your mouth. So it’s perfectly balanced, and it has some crunch, which is very important to me.”
Credit: HANDOUT
Credit: HANDOUT
Nantucket Bay Scallops with Leeks and Black Truffle Vinaigrette is a longtime signature dish, too.
“I personally don’t like big scallops, but you could use big or little scallops,” Quatrano allowed. “For me, the Nantucket Bay scallops are very important because starting Nov. 1 (the opening day for scallop season), we get them shipped in directly from the fisherman I’ve known forever.”
Warm Chocolate Cakes With Soft Centers is a crowd-pleasing dessert that’s stood the test of time.
“The chocolate cake is an iteration of a recipe that Jean-Georges (Vongerichten) made famous many, many years ago, with the molten lava chocolate cake,” Quatrano said. “People like it so much that we actually make it raw and sell it in these little tins for people to take home and bake.”
Thinking back on 30 years, Quatrano noted how much Atlanta’s dining scene has changed.
“It certainly is like a new world,” she said. “It’s gone through some major transformations, from being in a little house where we were cooking away, to now. Back 30 years ago, if you didn’t spend a million dollars on a restaurant, there was no cred for you. Now, good food transcends the locale.”
RECIPES
These recipes celebrate three favorite dishes from Bacchanalia’s 30 years as an Atlanta dining destination.
Credit: Amanda Greene
Credit: Amanda Greene
Bacchanalia’s Blue Crab Fritters With Avocado, Citrus and Hot Pepper Essence
The most popular dish on Bacchanalia’s menu balances the rich flavors of crabmeat and avocado with citrus and spice.
Hot Pepper Essence
Vanilla Oil
Credit: Amanda Greene
Credit: Amanda Greene
Nantucket Bay Scallops with Leeks and Black Truffle Vinaigrette
Nantucket Bay scallop season runs from November to March. Chef Anne Quatrano says this simple dish expresses the importance of quality ingredients, which is what her cooking has always been about.
Black Truffle Vinaigrette
Credit: Amanda Greene
Credit: Amanda Greene
Warm Chocolate Cakes With Soft Centers
The only tricky thing about this favorite Bacchanalia dessert is that you need to serve it right away, while it’s still warm and gooey. But thankfully, it’s quick to make.
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