A few years ago, I took the elevator down to my condo storage unit to retrieve my ancient Donvier ice cream maker from its dusty hiding place behind the Christmas ornament boxes. Company was coming for dinner, and I thought it would be fun to end the meal with ice cream I’d churned myself, rather than scooped from the predictable Häagen-Dazs carton.
I gave myself a two-day start to allow time to clear the freezer for the canister that required freezing overnight. I watched a YouTube video to refresh my memory of how to assemble it — I can never seem to snap that rubber ring that locks the parts together in place without an expletive-laced struggle.
But once I got past those hurdles, my fancy ginger-infused ice cream came together just as the recipe promised. The adulation that followed prompted me to place my ice cream maker in a visible spot on top of the washer-dryer to remind me to make another batch soon. It hasn’t budged since.
That’s because I’ve learned I can make ice cream without a churn — and the hassle that comes with it.
Recipes for no-churn ice cream have populated the internet for years. The basic formula calls for only a can of sweetened condensed milk (subbing for cooked custard), a bowl of full-fat heavy cream whipped to stiff peaks (aerating the mixture as churning does), and whatever other flavoring stirs your imagination. Scrape it into a metal loaf pan or other container, stick it in the freezer for half a day or up to several weeks, then let it soften a bit on the counter before scooping into bowls or cones. That’s it!
I remained skeptical until I tried the no-churn Coconut and Lime Ice Cream recipe while reviewing Lara Lee’s “Coconut and Sambal: Recipes From My Indonesian Kitchen” (Bloomsbury, $35). It was the perfect scoopable finish to a tropical-spiced menu — and the start of a new obsession that has turned my kitchen into a mini ice cream factory.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
My experiments using tips scrolling around the internet have taught me a few things:
— Metal loaf pans (ideally chilled first) facilitate freezing and are the perfect size and shape for easy scooping. But any plastic container with a tight-fitting lid will work.
— Full-fat, heavy whipping cream is needed to re-create the satiny mouthfeel of churned ice cream.
— A pinch of salt helps sharpen flavors.
— A splash of vanilla, vodka or other spirit reduces ice crystal formation for a smoother texture.
— Mix-ins will be better distributed if swirled in after the mixture thickens up for a few hours in the freezer.
Once you discover how easy it is to make any ice cream flavor you’re craving with a few ordinary ingredients and kitchen tools, you may bypass that freezer case at the supermarket from now on.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
No-Churn Vanilla Ice Cream (with variations)
This recipe, adapted from one from the Food Network website, is delicious as is, but it can also serve as a starting point for your own creation. Fresh or frozen, thawed berries or peaches can be chopped or pureed and folded directly into the mixture. To intensify and concentrate their flavor, try roasting them first with a little sugar, as I did with strawberries. The result was amazing.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
VARIATIONS
Double-Chocolate: Follow instructions for No-Churn Vanilla Ice Cream, whisking 1/3 cup cocoa powder into the sweetened condensed milk with a teaspoon of vanilla and pinch of salt. Stir in a chopped 3.5-ounce bittersweet chocolate bar (if desired) and proceed as directed.
Roasted Strawberry: Hull and halve 1 pound of fresh strawberries, spread out on a rimmed sheet pan and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of sugar. Roast in a 400-degree oven for 15-20 minutes, or until berries release their juices. Remove from the oven, let cool, and transfer to a food processor along with the sweetened condensed milk, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Pulse until well combined but still a little chunky. Whip the cream and proceed as directed for No-Churn Vanilla Ice Cream.
Cookies ‘N’ Cream: Follow instructions for No-Churn Vanilla Ice Cream, cover and freeze for about 2 hours until the consistency of soft-serve, then swirl in about 1 1/2 cups crushed chocolate sandwich cookies with a spoon. Continue to freeze, covered, for several more hours until hardened.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
No-Churn Coconut and Lime Ice Cream
This recipe is adapted from “Coconut and Sambal: Recipes From My Indonesian Kitchen” by Lara Lee (Bloomsbury, $35). It’s a refreshing, tropical-tasting finish to any spicy meal.
Credit: Chris Hunt
Credit: Chris Hunt
No-Churn Salted Caramel Bourbon Ice Cream
Dulce de leche, the caramelized version of sweetened condensed milk, is the key ingredient in this sophisticated variation adapted from one popularized by Nigella Lawson. A splash of bourbon, rum, brandy or other spirit keeps it ultra-creamy.
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