Strawberry season always surprises and delights me.

Just as I program myself to settle in for a cold winter, Valentine’s Day arrives, and shortly thereafter the first beautiful Florida strawberries. In a fit of springtime optimism, I always buy more than I should, which gives the pastry staff headaches. Needless to say, we make a lot of strawberry jam. While a simple jam on great bread is a perfect way to enjoy strawberries in season, a crostata — or galette, depending on which baking tradition you embrace — can be a showstopper.

This crostata di marmellata is a classic Italian tart that can be customized with any fruit worth preserving. I’ve included the bakery’s version of “Chris bought too many strawberries” jam here. It’s not too sweet and makes the strawberries the star of the show. If you’re in a time crunch, simply buy a couple jars of the best preserves you can find instead.

Chris Wilkins has been a professional baker for 12 years. He is a two-time James Beard Award nominee and the founder and co-owner of Root Baking Co. and Pizza Jeans. Submit your baking questions to bakebetterajc@gmail.com.

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