I lived in Boston for two years after college, and one of the things I miss most about warm weather (other than the lack of snow, of course) is lobster roll season. I’ve never been one to enjoy picking through a whole steamed crustacean, but mix its sweet, tender meat with mayonnaise or butter and serve it on a toasted roll? Sign me up.

However, I never wanted to make lobster rolls at home. Lobster is pricey and, frankly, annoying to cook. But if you swap in its smaller, easier to handle cousin — shrimp — you can make a similar dish in less than 30 minutes.

I like to start with the largest shrimp I can easily find at the store — look for labels like extra-jumbo or 16/20. Their size gives you a little more leeway in cooking time; you don’t need to worry that they’ll go from tender to chewy in a matter of seconds. I poach them gently in lemon-filled water, watching for their flesh to turn from grey and translucent to pink and opaque. From there, it’s just a quick chop then a toss with finely diced celery, mayonnaise, and more lemon.

Traditionally, lobster rolls are served in hot dog buns split on the top instead of the side (this shape makes it easiest to toast the buns in butter), but these are hard to find in the South. Luckily, you can make an equally tasty sandwich with standard side-loading buns, warmed in the oven, and then spread with a bit of butter on the inside.

Shrimp Rolls

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