By the time John deBary was of drinking age, the 1990s had come and gone. But the memories that colored his formative years are as vivid as ever — as evidenced by the 60-plus recipes in his second book, “Saved By the Bellini and Other 90s-Inspired Cocktails” (Union Square, $19.99).
His 2020 debut, “Drink What You Want,” remains my go-to guide for cocktail-making to this day. As an alum of the renowned New York City speakeasy, PDT, and former bar director of the Momofuku restaurant group, de Bary is more than qualified to help us maximize our liquor cabinets. What distinguishes him from other cocktail chroniclers is how he mixes that wisdom with good humor and unpretentious fun. Bright, whimsical illustrations throughout both books reinforce the light-hearted spirit.
Tiffani Thiessen, who starred in the high school sitcom “Saved by the Bell” and has gone on to host cooking shows and write cookbooks, wrote the foreword to his second volume. Its title is also that of a riff on a classic Bellini (sweetened with Fake ID Peach Puree) in a chapter devoted to drinks inspired by TV, movies and books.
That’s where you’ll also find The Costanzas’ Marble Rye, a nod to a hilarious Seinfeld episode involving a loaf from a Jewish bakery. It’s a simple blend of rye whiskey infused with caraway seeds and cacao nibs, sweet vermouth, and bitters that’s shaken with ice and poured into coupes. I made it and, in minutes, felt like a bonafide mixologist.
Other recipe chapter themes cover toys, games, fashion, novelty foods, and music. The Ballzooka conjures “Nerf War” sleepover parties with Midori-soaked green tea tapioca pearls afloat in a sea of rum, blue curacao, and Mountain Dew. Yabba Dabba Doo refines the flavors of a frozen Flintstones Push-Up pop with fresh orange juice, vanilla bean, and Grand Marnier.
Closer to God references a Nine Inch Nails song with a layering of Kahlua, vodka, and sparkling water that “hits hard, but is over before you know it.”
No matter when you were born, deBary’s clever, nostalgia-spiked recipes and commentary could convince you that the 90s were, indeed, “The Best Decade Ever.”
Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-Constitution. Follow her at susanpuckett.com.
Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter
Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram.
About the Author
