Atlanta native Eric Simpkins has been a pioneering beverage director, and now is a restaurateur and partner with Darren Carr in Big Citizen, the team behind the Lawrence, Bon Ton and Wonderkid. Recently, Simpkins talked with The Atlanta Journal-Constitution.
What was your first restaurant job?
Officially, my first job was working at Arby’s at Cumberland Mall in 1994, during the Christmas season. I was 15, and I was probably working more than I was supposed to. But, I loved, and still love, curly fries and Jamocha shakes.
When did you first get behind the bar?
In 1996, I got hired during the Olympics as a server and bar trainee at the original Cafe Intermezzo, when it was still very, very hip. It probably had one of the best alcohol selections in the city, with a lot of hard-to-find liquor, and wine and beer. I couldn’t drink, but I could train.
When did you get to do it all?
I ended up working at the River Room in Vinings, and I ended up getting my first bar manager position there. I was a cork dork. I still have one of the wine lists, and I think it had close to 100 wines by the glass. I got my first Wine Spectator award for our wine list there.
How did you end up moving to New York City?
Throughout my early career, I met all kinds of people who had been to culinary school. I met people who’d been to the French Culinary Institute. And, I knew I needed to challenge myself, so I thought I could either make a switch into the kitchen, or use it to become a master sommelier.
But, besides culinary school, you had other plans, too, right?
When I moved up there in 2005, I wanted to try to get a job at Milk ‘N Honey or Pegu Club, not knowing exactly what that entailed. It was kind of my Cinderella story. I was introduced to Tobey Maloney, who was the original head bartender for Milk ‘N Honey, and soon to be the opening head bartender for Pegu Club. I was scared out of my mind, but then I sat down with (owner) Audrey Saunders, and she let me come on as a relief bartender.
What brought you back to Atlanta?
One of the regulars at Pegu Club was Andrew Knowlton, who was from Atlanta, and an editor at Bon Appétit. He told me about Bob Amick opening Trois, and that they wanted to do cocktails there. So, in 2006, I ended up moving back to Atlanta to open Trois. ... And, after that, I went to Drinkshop at the W Hotel.
What’s it been like moving from the bar to more of the business side?
It’s been interesting to see the other side as an operator, trying to figure out how to keep places open, and adapt and change, and make the budgets. Big Citizen coalesced in 2017, soon after we opened Bon Ton.
So, you’re liking that role.
I’m really good at restaurant operations. I’m really good at hospitality. I’m good at front of house, talking to guests. I’m good at training people. I’m not as good at some of the bigger picture things. I don’t have a business degree. Darren has more experience with that, and he’s much more organized and direct.
You opened Wonderkid in December 2019, not long before COVID-19 hit. How tough has that been?
Wonderkid is improving, but it’s definitely been a struggle for many reasons. COVID really put a wrench in everything. It was our biggest swing restaurant. Like five times as expensive as what it cost us to open Bon Ton, with twice as much space, and double or more staff. It’s challenged us, but it’s still a work in progress.
Anything new on the horizon?
At Bon Ton, I’m really excited about getting the upstairs room open, called the Waiting Room. We’re creating this supper club experience, with reservations, and live entertainment, and fancier cocktails. ... And, we’re looking to expand Bon Ton, and take it to other cities, like Austin or Nashville.
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