Chef Kevin Gillespie’s nachos at Slabtown Public House not only provide a tasty dining experience, but also a lesson in how the dish ideally should be constructed.

Gillespie said he put nachos on the menu of his new spot (which replaced Cold Beer) because they are among his top five favorite foods — alongside wings, ice cream, pho and cured meats.

“To me, nachos are a deceptively easy dish that goes wrong all the time,” he said. “People think you can just throw it together, and it will be delicious, when, in fact, great nachos are one of the culinary world’s finest examples of proportionalism.”

Gillespie builds his gooey, crunchy nachos wide, not high. A sheet tray of tortilla chips is topped with beer-braised pulled pork, colby jack cheese, pico de gallo and chipotle salsa. A delicious avocado crema drizzle adds cool creaminess.

Every chip on the tray is covered with the smoky-savory toppings, and a group of friends easily can share in the messy treat.

Slabtown Public House. 670 DeKalb Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-254-1032, facebook.com/slabtownpubATL

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