Try ham and cheese, Spanish-style, at this Atlanta food stall

A ham and cheese is a study in sweet, salty simplicity, and is hard to beat. Leave it to chef Hector Santiago to build one at the Ponce City Market location of El Super Pan that achieves a dazzling alchemy of texture and flavors, with a Spanish accent.

As you’d expect at a place named El Super Pan, the structure is superior: House-made coca bread has all the soft, fluffy texture of focaccia, with a sturdy, crisp exterior that holds everything together. The bread’s airy crumb holds a slick brush of Spanish olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. A bewitching spread, made of dates and marcona almonds, is applied liberally on both sides of the bread.

Thin slices of dry-cured serrano and mild manchego cheese are layered. The soft chew of the salty, funky ham is balanced by the cheese’s nutty sweetness. A burst of fresh, peppery arugula and an agrodolce of piquillo peppers create a fusion of contrasting flavors that manage to harmonize. It’s an intimidating, tall stack — until you finish it.