A tasty noodle medley in Chamblee without the meat

The Southeast Asia dish char kway teow is a mélange of noodles, meats and vegetables that is more smoky and savory than the better known pad Thai. At Mamak Vegan Kitchen, however, they toss up a version called chow kway teow that has all the richness and textures, but without the meat. And it’s even better than the original.

A tangle of springy, flat rice noodles intermingles with carrots, bok choy, tofu and bean sprouts. The matchstick carrots retain their natural crunch and bunches of mildly sweet bok choy are slightly softened but still crisp. The crisp puffs of tofu, cut into sticks, cling to a sauce of soy and chile paste. The bean sprouts, which are added last, provide a nice crunch.

The ingredients harmonize in the dish thanks to the wok, which is heated to such a high temperature that smokey notes and an umami richness are infused into the noodles. It’s an intense taste, and the fragrant aroma wafts as you tackle the jumble.