Somehow, Bona Fide Deluxe manages to be both surprisingly sophisticated and seriously fun.
The combination sandwich shop-cocktail bar from the owners of Banshee in East Atlanta Village opened in February on La France Street in Edgewood, next door to VinATL wine shop.
The interior of the renovated, art deco-style building was designed by Elizabeth Ingram, who also did Banshee. The bright, airy space features tiled floors, wrap-around windows, dangling chandeliers and an eight-seat counter with bar stools. Overall, the atmosphere is something like a hip apothecary that serves adult beverages.
Whether you’re eating in or grabbing takeout, you line up to place your order.
Credit: Katie McDonald
Credit: Katie McDonald
The food menu from Executive Chef Nolan Wynn offers nine sandwiches, with a range of hefty ingredients loaded into soft, sub-style rolls.
Over the course of two to-go visits, my favorite from the list was the roast beef melt. In addition to generous slices of juicy beef, it included tangy Korean barbecue sauce, melted American cheese, napa cabbage and miso mayo.
I also liked the porchetta melt, featuring roasted pork with crackling skin, and layers of provolone cheese, cabbage, jalapeno salsa verde, pickled onions and chorizo mayo. I must say, the pork didn’t travel quite as well as the beef, or maybe it was just a bit tougher, but I’d try it again if I were eating in.
The most disappointing sandwich was the cold cut. I really liked the Italian-flavored indulgences of pepperoni, finocchiona, mortadella, peperonata, provolone, lettuce, tomato and pepperoni mayonnaise, but, darn it, the bread was soggy when I unwrapped it at home, so I ended up eating everything from the inside out.
Credit: Katie McDonald
Credit: Katie McDonald
Among other sandwiches to try, the vegan banh mi comes with sweet and sour shiitakes, lots of veggies and Maggi mayo; and the smoked turkey melt has Swiss cheese, avocado, arugula, Parmesan peppercorn dressing and peperonata.
There are five sides on the menu, but Zapp’s potato chips were my favorite. I enjoyed the deconstructed Greek salad, too. It includes a lightly dressed combination of tomatoes, cucumbers, kalamata olives, pickled onions, peperonata and feta cheese — but no greens.
As for the drinks, bar manager Katie McDonald’s well-curated list includes six house cocktails; six local beers on draft; a selection of red, white and sparkling wines; and several nonalcoholic options.
Bottom line: I really like this smart restaurant-bar, and I plan to go back to sit down and try more of the food and drink. However, because of the soggy bread, I’m just not sure about getting it to go.
Credit: Katie McDonald
Credit: Katie McDonald
BONA FIDE DELUXE
Food: seriously fun sandwich shop and cocktail bar
Service model: counter service, with pickup and delivery options
Vegetarian dishes: many options, including sandwiches, salads and sides
Alcohol: house cocktails, wine, local beer on draft and in cans, plus nonalcoholic options
Price range: $3 (Zapp’s chips) to $18 (roast beef melt)
Hours: 11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays and Sundays; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays
Outdoor dining: yes, with picnic tables
Address, phone: 1454 La France St. NE, Atlanta. 404-228-2391
Website: bonafide-atl.com
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