During a 10-year stint in Miami, chef Santiago Gomez, a native of Mexico City, spent a lot of time at home, cooking outdoors. The revelation of just how much wood and charcoal can amp up flavors is the inspiration behind Palo Santo, an upscale Mexican restaurant and rooftop bar that opened in September.
Palo Santo is named after a South American tree burned for the healing power of its smoke. The lemon, mint and pine notes of burning palo santo incense greet you when you step inside the restaurant.
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
That respect for tradition extends to the restaurant’s use of ancient practices, such as nixtamalization, which turns heirloom blue corn kernels into crispy, earthy-tasting tlayudas that appear throughout the menu.
However, only one round tlayuda accompanied an order of guacamole, where the presentation (garnished with colorful edible flowers and served in a heavy volcanic ash bowl) was more impressive than the flavor. Even when my table took great care to break the single disc into small chips for everyone, there wasn’t enough to swipe up all the guac. The servers didn’t seem surprised by our request for more, and returned with a plate of two smaller-sized tlayudas that added $3 to the cost of the $16 appetizer.
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
An order of the hamachi tostada similarly was striking in appearance, but underwhelming in taste. It also was confusing. Thin slices of yellowtail — with a few creamy lobes of uni, a charred serrano-yuzu mayo and avocado — sat on the corn disc, which rested on top of a bowl filled with dried blue corn kernels. Minutes after my own teeth had revealed to me that the corn was just for decoration, I overheard someone at an adjacent table deliver the same warning to his dinner partners.
You should, however, sink your teeth into the roasted cauliflower. After hours of smoking, the humble head is transformed, and ready to be swiped in a delicious pool of melty jalapeno-goat cheese.
An order of tlayuda from among main courses brought similar enjoyment. The toasty tortilla — covered with refried chipotle criollo beans, slices of hanger steak, melted Oaxacan cheese, avocado slices, watermelon radishes and salsa macha — was, as one dining companion said, like eating a steak pizza.
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
But, the wood-fired cooking was inconsistent. Despite a golden exterior, wedges of patatas bravas were undercooked, undermining all the fuss over the inclusion of chile de arbol mayo, cheese foam and black truffle. I also expected more char from grilled octopus, though a sous vide bath resulted in very tender tentacles.
However, a fillet of wood-fired branzino was imbued with smoky, grilled goodness. It came with four corn tortillas and bibb lettuce, to be assembled like fish tacos.
A 32-ounce bone-in rib-eye, served with four rotating accompaniments — in my case, sauteed mushrooms, blistered shishito peppers, smoky salsa roja and more undercooked patatas bravas — was shareable. But, for $75, I expected more tender, juicy bites.
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
Credit: The Cocktail Shaker
One of the most satisfying entrees was vegetarian. A cast-iron skillet, filled with Spanish Calasparra rice, earthy mushrooms and a puree of caramelized onions that had been smoked overnight in charcoal, brought a crispy bottom, reminiscent of the prized socarrat in a pan of paella.
And, the poblano rice was a divine Mexican take on creamy risotto, studded with smoked scallops.
From the bar, mezcal and tequila are showcased in thoughtful cocktails developed by General Manager Antonio Morales. Dehydrated fruit wheels and stamped cubes of ice add value to $16 drinks. The recent addition of a sommelier will bring more natural wines to the current list of two dozen labels.
Other changes are in the works, as well, because Palo Santo still is in a learning curve. Gomez said the rooftop bar has become more of a rowdy club than he would like. Also, patrons have griped about the lack of parking and the valet-only service, the price of which jumps from $5 to $10 at 9 p.m.
Palo Santo also joins the growing list of restaurants that automatically charge a 20% gratuity, which is disclosed on the menu and the printed bill. Yet, there still is a tip line on the bill that has left some diners confused — and annoyed — when they realize they inadvertently tipped more than they intended. Particularly egregious is a list of suggested tips, ranging from 18% to a whopping 30%, based on the total bill — which already includes taxes and the 20% automatic gratuity.
Palo Santo would do well to show more reverence for the dining dollar. In a year that has seen the arrival of plenty of sophisticated Mexican restaurants, patrons of the cuisine don’t lack for options.
PALO SANTO
Food: modern Mexican, specializing in wood-fired preparations
Service: satisfactory
Best dishes: roasted cauliflower, grilled octopus, tlayuda, mushroom rice, poblano rice, wood-fired branzino, charcoal-smoked panna cotta
Vegetarian dishes: guacamole, patatas bravas, mushroom gordita, roasted cauliflower, mushroom rice
Alcohol: full bar
Price range: $$$$ — checks include 20% gratuity
Hours: restaurant, 5-11 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays; rooftop, 7 p.m.-1 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays, 5-11 p.m. Sundays
Parking: valet only
MARTA station: none
Reservations: recommended
Outdoor dining: rooftop bar with heaters
Takeout: not recommended
Address, phone: 955 W. Marietta St. NW, Atlanta. 678-492-9211
Website: botanicohospitality.com
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