Story by H.M. CAULEY
Even avid wine aficionados can find themselves overwhelmed by vast selections while shopping for an ideal bottle. Most have unfamiliar names and descriptions that can be more perplexing than provocative. Just what does a hint of citrus followed by a finish of chocolate mean?
Richard Marmulstein, general manager of The Savvy Cellars wine shop in Sandy Springs, is used to explaining the intricacies of wine and pairing it with specific dishes. His approach comes down to this: drink what you enjoy best.
“It’s all about personal preference,” says Marmulstein, former co-owner of the old Dick and Harry’s restaurant. “If you enjoy the wine, then that’s all that matters.”
Marmulstein personally savors a bold red wine with fish or chicken entrees usually relegated to white wine pairings. But he does admit that some varieties do work better with some cuisines. Here are his top picks to match with popular international cuisines.
Italian: "Italian wines work really well with Italian food. A Chianti works well with a red-sauce pasta dish. With white-sauce dishes, I like a Falanghina or a Grechetto with a kind of chalky finish that goes well with seafood."
Indian: "The convention is to serve a slightly sweet white wine with spicy food like a curry. But often a Riesling or a Gewurztraminer cuts the heat. But I also like a Syrah or a Zinfandel with some spice, so you're having spice with spice."
Mexican: Marmulstein takes the same approach with Mexican dishes that pack a spice punch, pairing a Spanish wine like a Priorat from the wine-growing region near Barcelona "that has some depth to it." For a milder dish of fish tacos, try a Vernaccia from Italy.
Spanish tapas: Bountiful small plates present a variety of flavors that might be hard to match with one bottle, but Marmulstein says selecting a lighter Spanish wine will work with whatever comes to the table. "A nice Grenache would be great," as would be an Albariño from Spain's northwestern wine region.
French: A classic coq au vin cries out for a red Burgundy, maybe something from Côtes du Rhône. But a bowlful of mussels in garlic and butter pair well with a white Bordeaux or a Sauvignon Blanc. "I love Italian wines, too, and think they're very underrated. A crisp Pinot Grigio will work with any seafood dish."
Brazilian steak: It's tough to beat a big Argentinian Malbec, a French Châteauneuf-du-Pape or an Australian Syrah if the menu features meat. "But nobody does a better job at Cabernet Sauvignon than California. They have big, bold tannins and fruit flavors that work so well with a big piece of meat."
Thai: Though a traditional noodle dish can be simple, Marmulstein suggests raising the flavor stakes by pairing it with Champagne. "The sweetness and the spiciness together are a great pairing. I love it!"
The Savvy Cellars. 6690 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. 404236-0480. thesavvycellars.com
