Q: I have several yucca plants that have finished blooming and have left behind stalks of seed pods. How do I plant the seed?
-- Becky McWhorter, Paulding County
A: Frankly, it might be easier to look under your existing plants and dig out small off-shoots to transplant to your yard. But if you want to propagate from seed, let the seed stalks dry on the plant until they are brown and ready to crack. Crush a pod with pliers and remove the flat, black seed inside. In April, plant several in a small pot filled with moist potting soil. Keep the pot warm. In two to three weeks you'll see grasslike sprouts. Transplant these to individual pots and put in semi-shade until they are vigorously growing, at which point they can be transplanted to your garden.
Q: I'm having terrible allergies this year, and I'm being forced to stay indoors. I've been told to find locally grown raw honey to eat daily. Where could I get some?
-- Tara Lewis, Suwanee
A: Although this is widespread homespun advice, the allergy-fighting effect of local honey is not proven. In one study, participants were given local honey, commercial honey and honey-flavored corn syrup. No difference in their spring allergies was noted. On the other hand, I want to support local beekeepers in their efforts to maintain vital populations of these pollinators. See www.gabeekeeping.com for local honey sources.
Q: We recently visited the zoo in Columbus, Ohio, and came across a beautiful tree called a tri-colored beech tree. Will this tree survive in Georgia?
-- Kathy Gore, email
A: Tricolor beech, Fagus sylvatica 'Roseomarginata,' doesn't seem to grow well this far south. I don't believe I've seen one here, nor its first cousin, copper beech, Fagus sylvatica 'Atropurpurea.' My guess is that summer heat doesn't agree with them. American beech, Fagus grandifolia, grows very well here; witness the many saplings holding their tan leaves in hardwood forests in winter. You are welcome to look online for sources, but I doubt you'll have success. If you like purple-leaved trees, consider 'Forest Pansy' redbud, purple leaf plum or 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple.
Q: This spring we purchased a red-leaved banana. After planting, I noted the Care and Maintenance brochure said this plant only has a cold hardiness of 30° F. What do I do during cold weather?
-- Mike Richards, Fayetteville
A: If the banana plant is in a spot that doesn't get raked by frigid January winds, try protecting it. In November, cut the stalk down to 12 inches high and cover it with a 3-gallon plastic pot. Pile a thick layer of pine straw over the pot and keep your fingers crossed that temperatures don't go lower than the teens in winter. With luck, the base of the trunk will survive and it will sprout new growth in late April. On the other hand, if there are daughter plants sprouting next to the base in fall, each "pup" can be planted in a 3-gallon pot and kept as a houseplant until frost-free weather arrives next spring.
Listen to Walter Reeves Saturday mornings on AM 750 and 95.5 FM News/Talk WSB. Visit his website, www.walterreeves.com, or join his Facebook Fan Page at xrl.us/wrfacebook for more garden tips.
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