As the chill of winter recedes in the coming weeks and the first signs of spring begin to appear, there are three things every wine enthusiast ought to know.
No. 1, it's not too early to snap up the first releases of dry rose wines that hit the market. Most rose spends little or no time aging in oak casks, so the 2015 vintage will be widely available soon. While conventional wisdom holds that rose is a beverage best served in the hot summer months, the reality is rose is a wine that has a place at the table all year round, particularly later in the year as we celebrate the Thanksgiving feast. I also drink it with grilled salmon, steamed clams or raw oysters, regardless of the outside temp.
No. 2, the conventional wisdom also holds that merlot is the correct match for roast spring lamb. No doubt that's a superb combination, but I'm just as happy with a red Cotes-du-Rhone or a red from the southern Rhone, such as Gigondas, or an Australian shiraz or California cabernet. Lamb has a strong, gamey flavor that requires a wine with some power, and good merlot certainly delivers, but other reds can be just as satisfying.
No. 3, the tendency is to forget about bubbles at this time of year unless someone is getting married and a round of salutations and toasting is in order. In some parts of the world, however, a glass of sparkling wine before dinner is a nightly ritual. It's a ritual worth adopting. The proliferation of good cheap prosecco and cava from Italy and Spain has made drinking bubbly on a regular basis affordable. So no excuses!
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
La Fiera 2014 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy ($8) -- This Montepulciano is textbook, offering ripe, juicy dark berry aromas and soft supple tannins. Though plump and simple, it is ultimately satisfying and a red you can put on the table every night without having to take a second mortgage. The price is no indicator of low quality, for most of the reds from Abruzzo are modest in price while long on flavor. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Patz & Hall 2013 Pinot Noir, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros ($70) - Patz & Hall's monumental 2013 Hyde Pinot is an example of just how good California Pinot Noir can be, despite the many skeptics. This vintage is muscular and powerful, showing remarkable depth and richness of flavor without losing the tension that is so important to Pinot Noir. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry dominate, supported by fine tannins. This finish shows a touch of spice and a bit of grip that bodes well for those who might wish to cellar this wine for 8 to 10 years. Rating: 96.
Besserat de Bellefon Cuvee des Moines Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France ($70) -- One of the most important advances in Champagne in recent years has been the proliferation of 100 percent grand cru cuvees. Besserat de Bellefon's Cuvee des Moines is a splendid example. This blanc de blancs is 100 percent chardonnay grown in the grand cru village of Les Mesnil. With a beautiful nose of brioche and lemon creme, it delivers the same high notes on the palate. Elegant and exquisitely balanced, this is a Champagne that will improve with age, although I suspect most connoisseurs will drink up sooner rather than later. Rating: 94.
Gary Farrell 2013 Chardonnay, Olivet Lane Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($45) -- Gary Farrell's 2013 Chardonnay from the well-regarded Olivet Lane Vineyard is another example of California Chardonnay that shows what California Chardonnay can be when it is grown in the right place and handled with the utmost skill and care. This vintage offers beautiful richness and layered complexity without compromising the essential tension between ripeness and structure. It shows notes of lemon oil and pear, with hints of spice. The finish is long and clean. Rating: 94.
Rombauer 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($24) -- Rombauer is famous for many things, but one of them isn't sauvignon blanc. They made their first vintage in 2014, but it was more of a test than a commitment and unavailable on a nationwide basis. So for all intents and purposes, the 2015 is the maiden voyage and from the look of things, you would have to say this is a direction long overdue. The 2015 is a delicious example of a softer style that emphasizes characteristics of melon and citrus rather than grassy, herbal pungency. Well done. Rating: 91.
Inconceivable 2012 Terremoto '68 Rosso, Terre Siciliane IGT, Italy ($25) -- Terremoto '68 2012 Rosso blends three prominent grape varieties of Sicily -- Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Frappato -- to produce a succulent, juicy southern Italian red that is rich and meaty, and an excellent match for the earthy aromas of southern Italian cooking. This vintage exhibits a distinct note of anise, wildflowers and dried herbs, with rich dark berry fruits on the palate and a round, soft finish. Rating: 89.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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