Zeus was flummoxed: One prophecy predicted this, one predicted that. The god broke out in a cold sweat, which rolled down his body, dropped to the ground and sprung up as cabbage. Explaining the vegetable’s divine stink.
At first cabbage was a spindly plant — according to the botanist’s version of the tale. Over time it amassed its round head and proliferated into the big, bold brassica family — all mustard sharp and broccoli pungent. These days the paparazzi stalk kale, but the curly cutie comes from a long line of celebrity greens.
The nutritionist has it that cabbage is packed with superpowers. The farmer depends on the crop’s cold-weather chops. The cook likes its versatility; those crunchy layers can go coleslaw mild, kimchee bold and sausage-studded spicy.
The student of cabbage knows that all of the above are true. Sometimes conflicting perspectives can be equally correct. Just ask the sweaty Zeus.
Spicy Cabbage
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 40 minutes
Makes: 4 servings
1 green cabbage, about 2 pounds
1 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/4 lb. smoked andouille sausage, cubed
2 strips bacon, thinly sliced crosswise, see note
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
Toss: Quarter and core cabbage; slice into thin slivers. Toss with salt and pepper, separating cabbage strands; set aside.
Brown: Set a small heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, tumble in sausage cubes and cook, stirring, until brown, about 3-4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out sausage. Drain on paper towels.
Crisp: Meanwhile, set a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, toss in bacon slivers and cook, stirring, until crisp, about 3-4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out bacon and drain on paper towels along with the sausage. Leave rendered bacon fat in the pan.
Caramelize: Tumble cabbage, onion and garlic into the hot bacon fat. Cook, stirring, over medium heat, until the vegetables turn a deep caramel brown, 30-35 minutes. In the last 10 minutes, lower heat to prevent scorching.
Season: Stir in tomato paste; cook 1 minute. Tumble in sausage and bacon and toss until hot. Enjoy.
Note: For ease in slicing, wrap the bacon in waxed paper; freeze 20 minutes.
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