Ray’s in the City
240 Peachtree Street N.W., Atlanta
404-524-9224, www.raysrestaurants.com/raysinthecity
Q: Every year at DragonCon we eat at Ray's in the City. Their gumbo is one of the best I've ever had. If you could get their recipe, I'd be so thrilled! The secret is the roux, so that is the part I really need. Our out-of-state guests go crazy for it! Thanks! — Angela Pratt, Tucker
A: Chef Dean Berthelot was pleased to provide this recipe and a few notes about the recipe's origins. "I am from New Orleans, lived there until I was 31 and then we moved here. The recipe that has been used at Ray's was developed at Ray's on the River and is now in all of the Ray's locations. It is the best gumbo I have had, hands down. It is tried and true and proven throughout the years. We use authentic Cajun sausage, lots of seasonings, a deep dark true roux — no commercial caramel colored flavoring — and lots of high-quality seafood. Customers like it, but chefs love it. We love to make it, love to taste it and love to serve it. When people visit the restaurant and try it, I think that they can taste the love!"
Unlike some recipes where the okra goes in early, for this recipe the okra is added last. “The okra does go in last and is cooked for about 5 minutes to maintain the color and integrity of the okra. Gumbo gets its name from the African word for okra, ‘quingombo,’ so we try to preserve the flavor, color and integrity of the okra,” added Berthelot.
Clam juice is available at grocery stores alongside broths and stocks, or sometimes in the section where canned seafood is sold.
Ray’s in the City Gumbo
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups clam juice
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced green pepper
1 (15-ounce) can diced tomato
1 (15-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1/4 cup dark brown roux
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon gumbo file
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/8 teaspoon allspice
2 bay leaves
1/2 pound small shrimp (51 to 60 shrimp per pound), peeled and deveined
12 select oysters
1/4 pound claw crab meat
1/4 pound andouille sausage, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 1/2 cups okra, trimmed, sliced 1/4-inch thick
Cooked rice, for garnishing gumbo
To make the dark roux, in a small skillet or saucepan, heat oil and slowly whisk in flour. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly to prevent sticking and scorching, until the mixture turns a milk chocolate color. If dark specks appear, the roux is burned and of no use. When roux reaches the correct color, remove from heat and set aside. You should have approximately 1/4 cup.
In a large saucepan, combine clam juice, onion, green pepper, diced tomato and crushed tomato. Bring mixture to a boil, then add the roux, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, gumbo file, thyme, black pepper, red pepper flakes, allspice and bay leaves. Reduce heat and simmer mixture 15 minutes. Add shrimp, oysters, crab and sausage and cook 5 minutes. Add okra and simmer 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Serve immediately, garnished with rice if desired. Discard bay leaves. Makes: 7 cups
Per 1/2-cup serving: 173 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 8 grams protein, 14 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 10 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 42 milligrams cholesterol, 437 milligrams sodium.
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