Several decades ago when Deborah VanTrece, a former flight attendant, began her culinary career, the programming in culinary arts schools left something to be desired. “Italian, French and all of these different cuisines were put on a pedestal. We would spend days learning to make pasta but when it came to soul food it was an hour and the teacher pretty much turned the class over to me,” said VanTrece. At the time, VanTrece could only wonder, what was it that made food from her culture less important than all the others?
From that point forward, VanTrece was determined to take all of the techniques she was learning and use them to uplift African American cuisine. “I knew the food I grew up with was good. It made me dance. It brought us together at tables. It was great food and great celebration,” said VanTrece, whose Twisted Soul Cookhouse & Pours has become an Atlanta destination.
Today through Sunday, VanTrece , along with several other Atlanta-based Black chefs, will headline curated events at the inaugural Gather ‘round, a four-day culinary weekend celebrating Southern food, drink, music and art produced by Southern Culinary & Creative. Held at the new Epicurean Hotel Atlanta in Midtown, the event promises to offer attendees a taste of Atlanta’s diverse food scene.
Highlights of the events include a Friday session in which VanTrece along with two other chefs share and serve chicken dishes prepared with different styles and cultures in mind. On Saturday, she joins a conversation that offers new perspectives on influences to American Cuisine and Sunday, VanTrece wraps up with a seven-course dinner and blind tasting in conjunction with other women chefs.
As a fierce advocate for soul food served with style, VanTrece hopes the events help change some long-held and false beliefs about the cuisine. “We have been brainwashed to believe there is something wrong with what we are eating,” she said. “Now we are proudly cooking our food and presenting it in very thoughtful ways and shining a light on it.”
Soul food is not his game, but Justin Dixon bristles when people ask him to categorize his food focus. “I call it Atlanta cuisine. It is an amalgamation of everything I was taught by all the awesome chefs I have cooked under in the city,” said Dixon who has trained under longtime Atlanta chefs Shaun Doty and Chris Hall among others, and has led kitchens at The Shed and Wonderkid.
Humble Mumble, his new pop-up named for the OutKast song, marks his effort to exit the restaurant rollercoaster and to model the many successful pop-ups in Atlanta that have since segued into full-fledged restaurants. Events like Gather ‘round can help build on the idea of Atlanta cuisine as the blend of Asian, Jewish, Latino, Soul and Southern food for which the city is known, Dixon said.
He will join a signature event on Saturday which allows guests to experience cuisine and drinks against a backdrop of musical cultures of the South. Along with bartender Keyatta Mincey Parker, Dixon will offer up flavors and Parker will offer cocktails that embody Atlanta’s renown hip-hop and R&B scene. He follows with a seated brunch and rooftop reception on Sunday.
“I want to shine a light not just on Black chefs but also the top pop-up chefs in this city,” Dixon said. “That is where you are going to find the next generation of chefs.”
Event Preview:
Gather ‘round: A Celebration of Southern Food, Drink, Music & Art Benefitting Giving Kitchen
$50-$500. October 14-17. Epicurean Atlanta1117 W Peachtree St NW, Atlanta. Use code: UnapologeticallyATL for a 10% discount at https://www.gatherroundatl.com/get-tickets.
About the Author
