It must have taken an enormous amount of curiosity — or sheer need from hunger — for the first human to explore the possibilities of the cacao pod. Roughly the size of a football, the pod looks unforgiving and the beans inside are bitter.
Fast-forward a few thousand years, and chocolate has become the world’s most recognizable confection, especially around Easter. Second only to Valentine’s Day, Easter is the chocolate industry’s basket of golden eggs, literally. In the United States alone, Easter chocolate sales reach about $2.1 billion annually, according to the National Retail Federation.
If you’re planning to pick up some bunnies for your basket, or would like to make a few chocolate goodies of your own, here’s a primer on selecting and working with chocolate.
First, it’s important to understand where chocolate comes from.
“Chocolate is actually the end result of a long chain of inputs — growing and tending the trees in a sustainable and knowledgeable way, harvesting the seeds and carefully fermenting and sun-drying them, then shipping them to the chocolate maker, who goes through their own steps for roasting, cracking, grinding and molding the cacao into chocolate. This is a process that involves many hands and skill sets,” said Elaine Read, co-founder of the Xocolatl chocolate shop in Atlanta.
Producing chocolate that is high-quality, sustainable for the environment, and employs fair labor practices is expensive. Many chocolate-producing areas, such as the Ivory Coast – employ child labor. That’s why small-batch, local “bean-to-bar” producers have to charge more.
To choose an ethically sourced chocolate, Read suggests checking out ingredient lists and labeling, and perusing manufacturers’ websites. “Conscious chocolate consumers should be looking for three things: environmental sustainability in production; ethical and transparent sourcing from cacao farmers; high-quality, real-food ingredients on the ingredients list.” There’s no universal certification for chocolate, so it’s best to look for a Fair Trade or organic label.
Just when you think you’ve got sourcing figured out, there’s often confusion around labeling.
In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration’s labeling requirements are minimal. Basically, milk chocolate must contain at least 10% cocoa solids, while dark chocolate must contain at least 35% cocoa solids. White chocolate is not technically considered chocolate because it does not contain cocoa solids, so don’t bother looking for a cocoa percentage on the label. This means the terms “semisweet,” “dark” or even “milk” could mean the same thing, depending on the percentage of cocoa the manufacturer chooses to add.
“Look for dark chocolate bars that clearly label the percentage of cocoa in the chocolate,” said Read. “If it says “dark chocolate” but doesn’t have a percentage, know that it could be as low as (the minimum) 35% cocoa.” For the best flavor, mouthfeel and health benefits, Read recommends purchasing chocolate with 72% cocoa solids.
And that’s why the percentage of cocoa solids in your chocolate matters. The higher the percentage, the better the flavor and texture, and the lower the percentage of other ingredients, like sugar. The health benefits of chocolate, like improved blood pressure and reduced inflammation, also increase as the cocoa percentage rises.
Working with chocolate has a daunting reputation, but it’s not as difficult or involved as you might think.
If you plan to melt chocolate for dipping candies or fruit, you’ll need to temper it. Tempering involves heating and cooling the chocolate so that the cocoa butter crystals re-form into a structure that doesn’t streak when the chocolate sets — a condition in the chocolate called fat bloom. Tempering prevents fat bloom, allowing the chocolate to set with a strong shine and “snap,” meaning the chocolate sets up hard and snaps when broken in two.
Have you ever opened a chocolate bar to find ugly gray and white streaks? Called sugar bloom, this comes from improper storage of chocolate. Store chocolate away from direct light and at temperatures ranging from 65 to 72 degrees (never in the fridge!).
Tempering is easy at home with a microwave. “Tempering at home in the microwave uses the concept of ‘seed’ chocolate — that’s chocolate that already has the ‘locked in’ cocoa butter structure to seed the melted chocolate,” explained Read.
Once you’ve found ethically-sourced chocolate with your preferred percentage of cocoa solids, take some home and try your hand at tempering to make your own chocolate-dipped confections. Or use my easy ganache recipe to make delicious glaze, sauce, frosting, mousse and truffles.
Easy at-home tempering tips from Elaine Read, co-founder of Xocolatl in Atlanta
- Start with high-quality chocolate! We recommend Xocolatl of course, but there are lots of great craft chocolates to choose from.
- Finely chop the chocolate into uniform pieces. This makes it easier to melt. Set one-third of the chocolate aside. This is your seed chocolate.
- Place the other two-thirds of the chopped chocolate into a microwave-safe bowl and microwave in 30-second intervals on low, stirring in between. The goal is to fully melt the chocolate and get it to between 100 and 110 degrees. Do not overheat.
- Gradually add the seed chocolate into the melted chocolate, stirring continuously until the chocolate cools to between 84 and 91 degrees. The chocolate should now be in temper. You can test for temper by dipping a knife in the chocolate and setting it aside. If, after three to five minutes, the chocolate has hardened and has a glossy finish without any streaks, you’re in temper!
- Keep the chocolate at its working temperature of 84-91 degrees. If it begins to thicken or cool, gently reheat in the microwave on low in five-second intervals, stirring in between.
- Use a reliable thermometer, especially when you’re starting. Avoid moisture — make sure all utensils and bowls are completely dry. Even a little bit of water can cause the chocolate to seize up.
- Be patient! You can’t rush tempering.
RECIPES
One of the easiest ways to enjoy chocolate is by making a ganache, one of the most essential items in the pastry canon. Use ganache as-is for a rich glaze or chocolate sauce, or whip it to make easy chocolate mousse or frosting. You can also roll it in your favorite coating to make dense, delicious truffles. This Easter, dive into these simple recipes that produce impressive results.
Basic Ganache
Ganache is a benchmark for any pastry chef — a cornerstone of versatility in the pastry kitchen that lays the groundwork for many other recipes. While it can be made with milk or white chocolate, classically, it’s a dark chocolate — at least 55% cacao — that’s used. The ratio of chocolate can easily be increased or decreased depending on the thickness desired. This recipe creates a silky smooth ganache that sets overnight at room temperature for the perfect density. Use it as-is to make a cake glaze or rich chocolate sauce over ice cream.
- 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
- 2 2/3 cups dark chocolate, chopped, or use chocolate chips
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 cup heavy cream
- Liqueur or flavoring, to taste (optional)
- Place the corn syrup, chocolate and butter in a medium bowl.
- Place the cream in a small saucepan and heat over medium-high heat until it begins to steam and bubble. Do not stir.
- Pour the hot cream over the chocolate mixture. Let the mixture sit for 1 minute, then whisk until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is shiny and smooth. If flavoring the ganache, add the flavoring now. (Use anywhere from a dash to a few tablespoons.)
- Use the ganache immediately if preparing as a glaze or chocolate sauce; otherwise, wipe down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula and cover the ganache with plastic wrap. The wrap should touch the surface of the ganache so that no air can get through. Let the ganache sit overnight at room temperature or refrigerate 2 hours before using.
- Leftover ganache may be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to a week. To make it spreadable or pourable, reheat ganache at a low temperature over a double boiler until the mixture melts enough to stir it until smooth, about 3 minutes, or on low in the microwave in 30-second increments.
Makes 3 cups.
This recipe will make enough ganache to glaze 2 (8-inch) cakes and make 24 medium truffles. Whipped, it makes enough frosting for 6 large or 12 small cupcakes or 1 (8-inch) layer cake.
Per 1/4-cup serving: 378 calories (percent of calories from fat, 64), 2 grams protein, 32 grams carbohydrates, 25 grams total sugars, 4 grams fiber, 27 grams total fat (16 grams saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 8 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford
Credit: Meridith Ford
Easy Chocolate Mousse
Chocolate mousse is a dessert that everyone loves but the traditional recipe is complicated to make. The classic version involves a blend of egg yolks and sugar heated to a ribbon-like consistency, then tempered with chocolate, then tempered with a meringue. Whew. This easier version is made simply with ganache and whipped cream. Trust me, no one will know the difference, and you’ll have more time to enjoy it.
- 1 ½ cups heavy cream, chilled
- 1 recipe Basic Ganache, room temperature (68 to 70 degrees)
- Additional whipped cream and/or seasonal fruit for garnish (optional)
- Pour the cream into the bowl of a standing mixer and return the cream and bowl to the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
- Remove the cream from the refrigerator and whip, using the whip attachment, until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes or less. Do not over-whip the cream or it will not blend with the ganache and you will lose volume and texture. The cream should thicken and hold a soft shape.
- Make sure the ganache is fluid enough to pour, but not hot (otherwise it will deflate the cream). If necessary, warm the ganache in a double boiler, or in 30-second increments in the microwave on low, until desired texture is reached.
- To the bowl of ganache, add the whipped cream in thirds, gently folding in each addition with a rubber spatula until smooth. Take care to mix just until blended and smooth — you don’t want to lose the volume of the cream.
- Pipe or spoon the mousse into serving bowls or glasses. Garnish with additional whipped cream and/or fruit if desired. Chill, uncovered, until ready to serve, up to 2 hours. (Left overnight, the mousse can take on the flavors and odors in the refrigerator, so it’s best to make it the same day as needed for serving.)
Yield: 6 (8-ounce) portions.
Per portion, without garnish: 914 calories (percent of calories from fat, 71), 4 grams protein, 66 grams carbohydrates, 50 grams total sugars, 4 grams fiber, 76 grams total fat (49 grams saturated), 153 milligrams cholesterol, 41 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford
Credit: Meridith Ford
Chocolate Truffles
These are the simplest, most versatile confections to make and enjoy! They offer such a big payoff and make fantastic gifts. Flavor the ganache with a liqueur when you make it if you want to get creative, then roll the ganache balls in whatever coatings you desire. I love the warm, sweet flavor of truffles rolled in the Xocolatl Spice Coating, recipe courtesy of Elaine Read.
- 1/3 cup coating, such as sifted cocoa powder or powdered sugar, finely chopped nuts, toasted coconut shavings, grated chocolate or Xocolatl Spice Coating (see recipe)
- 1 recipe Basic Ganache, straight from refrigerator
- Place the coating of your choice in a medium bowl. Line a sheet pan or cookie tray with parchment paper.
- Make sure the ganache is the right consistency: If a knife can stand in the center and hold, the ganache will make truffles. If not, refrigerate until the ganache is hard enough to work with.
- Using a tablespoon (or a small ice cream scoop), scoop out a tablespoon of ganache and roll it in your hands until a ball forms. Be careful not to overwork — the heat of your hands can melt the chocolate in the ganache.
- Drop the truffle into the coating and roll gently until covered. Place on prepared trays and chill until firm, about 30 minutes to 1 hour. Box or plate as desired.
- Store the truffles, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Yield: 24 medium truffles.
Per truffle (without coating): 171 calories (percent of calories from fat, 64), 1 gram protein, 16 grams carbohydrates, 12 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 13 grams total fat (8 grams saturated), 16 milligrams cholesterol, 5 milligrams sodium.
Xocolatl Spice Coating
- 3 teaspoons cinnamon
- 1 1/2 teaspoons ancho chile powder
- 1 teaspoon cayenne powder
- 4 teaspoons plus 1/4 cup sugar, divided
- Combine cinnamon, ancho chile powder, cayenne and 4 teaspoons sugar in a small bowl. Reserve 6 teaspoons of the mixture, discarding the remainder or reserving for another use.
- To the reserved mixture add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Stir until well combined.
- The mixture can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
Yields: 18 teaspoons, approximately 1/3 cup spice coating.
Per teaspoon: 14 calories (percent of calories from fat, 2), trace protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams total sugars, trace fiber, trace total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 4 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford
Credit: Meridith Ford
Chocolate Ganache Frosting
Ganache whipped to a smooth swirl is the easiest, smoothest chocolate frosting you’ll ever make.
- 1 recipe Basic Ganache, room temperature (68 to 70 degrees)
- Have the ganache firm, but not hard — if a knife can stand in the center of the bowl, the ganache is too firm. If it’s too firm, heat over a double boiler, stirring gently, or heat in a microwave on low, 30 seconds at a time, stirring between each interval, until it smooths to a thick paste that makes a small peak with a knife.
- Use a hand whisk to gently whisk the ganache to the consistency desired to frost your cake. It should firm to the proper consistency within a minute of whisking and lighten in color. Alternatively, a standing or hand mixer can be used, but it’s easy to over-whip the ganache with these tools. The ganache will seize and become too firm if over-whipped. If this happens, melt the ganache and start the process over again.
- Once the desired consistency is reached, use the ganache frosting immediately — it will firm up as it rests.
- Store the frosting covered at room temperature for 1-2 days, or for 1-2 weeks in the refrigerator. Reheat for use as necessary.
Makes 3 cups.
This recipe makes enough frosting to fill and frost 1 (8-inch) layer cake, or 6 large or 12 small cupcakes.
Per 1/4-cup serving: 378 calories (percent of calories from fat, 64), 2 grams protein, 32 grams carbohydrates, 25 grams total sugars, 4 grams fiber, 27 grams total fat (16 grams saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 8 milligrams sodium.
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