Bring these recipes shaped by Southern women to your Thanksgiving table

Credit: handout

Credit: handout

In her introduction, Tipton-Martin explains how the book grew out of conversations long before she came to Cook’s Country in 2020, conversations that resulted in a collection of recipes and stories “written, edited and designed by a diverse group of female changemakers. … We invited more than 70 bold, bright women contributors to explore the womanish side of Southern food through their particular lens.”

Bolling adds, “While (the book) does have its fair share of recipes for fried chicken (we included eight) and biscuits (also eight), it has so much more than that. The stories in this book show that food can be a lens through which to learn about our shared history, to pay homage to those who came before us, and to help build a better, tastier, future.”

As you build your Thanksgiving menu, this book gives us a timely reminder of the importance of family history – the history of one’s own family and the larger history of the women who came before us.

AUTHOR APPEARANCE

7 p.m. Dec. 10. Toni Tipton-Martin and Morgan Bolling in conversation with Kim Severson. $6 members, $12 nonmembers. Atlanta History Center, 130 West Paces Ferry Road, Atlanta. 404-814-4000. For tickets and information, visit atlantahistorycenter.com.  

RECIPES

Whether you’re looking to augment your customary Thanksgiving menu, or change up a few of the dishes you traditionally serve, consider these six recipes from “When Southern Women Cook: History, Lore, and 300 Recipes with Contributions from 70 Women Writers.”

Credit: Steve Klise

Credit: Steve Klise

Aunt Jule’s Pie

The headnote for this recipe explains that the Cook’s Country archives recipe for Jefferson Davis Pie, named after the Confederate general, was “most likely invented by, and should have been attributed to, an enslaved woman, Aunt Jule. So we asked baker and activist Arley Bell to redevelop our old pie recipe. And we’ve named it after the woman who deserves the credit.”

It was Bell’s husband who suggested serving the pie with Bourbon Whipped Cream.

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out dough

Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Roll dough into 12-inch circle. Loosely roll dough around rolling pin and gently unroll it onto 9-inch pie plate, letting excess dough hang over edge evenly. Ease dough into plate by gently lifting edge of dough with one hand while pressing into bottom of pie plate with your other hand.

Trim overhang to 1/2 inch beyond edge of plate. Tuck overhang under itself. Folded edge should be flush with edge of plate. Crimp dough evenly around edge of plate. Wrap dough-lined plate loosely in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.

Adjust oven rack to bottom position and heat oven to 325 degrees.

Melt butter in 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Cook, swirling skillet constantly, until solids turn color of milk chocolate and have toasty aroma, 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately remove skillet from heat and scrape browned butter into small heatproof bowl. Set aside to cool.

Make fruit and nut mixture: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine raisins, dates, pecans and 1/4 teaspoon salt and process until finely ground, about 30 seconds.

Make custard: In a large bowl, combine brown sugar, remaining 3 tablespoons flour, nutmeg, allspice and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add browned butter and whisk until fully combined. Whisk in egg yolks until fully combined. Whisk in cream and vinegar.

Press nut and fruit mixture into bottom of chilled pie crust. Pour custard over top. Transfer to oven and bake until center of pie registers 185 to 190 degrees and is set (filling will jiggle slightly when pie is shaken), about 1 hour. Let pie cool on wire rack until set, at least 4 hours. Serve with Bourbon Whipped Cream.

Serves 8.

Per serving, without Bourbon Whipped Cream: 638 calories (percent of calories from fat, 61), 7 grams protein, 57 grams carbohydrates, 35 grams total sugars, 3 grams fiber, 45 grams total fat (25 grams saturated), 219 milligrams cholesterol, 389 milligrams sodium.

Single-Crust Pie Dough

Whisk ice water and sour cream in bowl.

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process flour, sugar and salt until combined, about 5 seconds. Scatter butter over top and pulse until butter pieces are no larger than peas, about 10 pulses. Add sour cream mixture and pulse until dough forms clumps and no dry flour remains, about 12 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. (Dough will be loose and have texture of wet sand.)

Lightly dust work surface with flour. Transfer dough to work surface and knead briefly until dough comes together. Place dough on sheet of plastic wrap and form into 4-inch disk. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate 1 hour. (Wrapped dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month. If frozen, let dough thaw completely on counter before rolling.)

Makes 1 crust, serving 8.

Per serving: 179 calories (percent of calories from fat, 60), 2 grams protein, 16 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 12 grams total fat (7 grams saturated), 32 milligrams cholesterol, 147 milligrams sodium.

Bourbon Whipped Cream

Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, mix cream, bourbon, brown sugar and vanilla together on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and whip until stiff peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes. (Whipped cream can be refrigerated for up to 4 hours.)

Makes 2 cups.

Per tablespoon: 32 calories (percent of calories from fat, 88), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, 1 gram total sugars, no fiber, 3 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 8 milligrams cholesterol, 2 milligrams sodium.

Recipes from “When Southern Women Cook: History, Lore, and 300 Recipes with Contributions from 70 Women Writers.” Reproduced with permission of America’s Test Kitchen.

Credit: Steve Klise

Credit: Steve Klise

Cornbread Dressing

This recipe is an adaptation of one published by author, chef and Atlanta restaurateur Deborah VanTrece in “The Twisted Soul Cookbook: Modern Soul Food with Global Flavors” (Rizzoli, 2021), a cookbook VanTrece dedicated to the women in her life who shaped her and have given her a strong foundation.

The dressing is dotted with fresh vegetables and andouille sausage, flavored with fresh herbs and seasoning salt, and baked with just enough eggs and savory chicken broth to achieve a cohesive, set dish. Two changes made by the editors to the original recipe were to use Creole seasoning and to brush the dressing it with melted butter before baking to give the dressing a rich, crisp, golden top.

For the cornbread:

For the dressing:

For the cornbread: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray 13-by-9 inch baking dish with vegetable oil spray.

Whisk flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and salt together in large bowl. Whisk milk, eggs, and melted butter together in second bowl. Whisk milk mixture into flour mixture until just about combined. Transfer batter to prepared dish. Bake until cornbread is golden brown and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 20 minutes.

For the dressing: While the cornbread bakes, melt 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add andouille, onions, bell peppers, celery and bacon to skillet and cook until vegetables are softened, about 8 minutes. Add Creole seasoning and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer sausage mixture to large bowl.

Turn hot cornbread onto rimmed baking sheet and break into small pieces with two forks. (Cooled, crumbled cornbread can be transferred to zipper-lock bag and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)

Transfer crumbled cornbread to bowl with sausage mixture. Add broth, milk, eggs, parsley and pepper and stir to combine. Transfer dressing to now-empty dish and spread into even layer (do not pack down). Using side of rubber spatula or wooden spoon, create ridges about 1/2 inch apart on top of dressing.

Brush top of dressing with 4 tablespoons melted butter. Bake until browned and crisped on top and heated through, about 35 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes and serve.

To make ahead: After transferring dressing to baking dish and forming ridges, let dressing cool completely. Cover baking dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours or wrap in additional layer of aluminum foil and freeze for up to 1 month. To serve, thaw overnight in refrigerator if frozen. Extend baking time by 15 minutes and cover with foil for final 10 minutes of cooking if top begins to get too dark.

Serves 12.

Per serving: 479 calories (percent of calories from fat, 57), 14 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams total sugars, 2 gram fiber, 30 grams total fat (14 grams saturated), 157 milligrams cholesterol, 1,221 milligrams sodium.

Credit: Steve Klise

Credit: Steve Klise

Green Spaghetti

Pasta dressed with a roasted poblano cream sauce is a traditional Mexican potluck dish. At Barbs-B-Q in Lockhart, Texas, it’s offered as a stand-in for macaroni and cheese. The editors asked Chuck Charnichart, co-owner and pitmaster of Barbs-B-Q, to adapt the recipe which her mother served at Thanksgiving and Christmas alongside slow-cooked brisket.

The recipe headnote offers the following tips: “Knorr brand chicken bouillon is traditional; if you can’t find the loose powder, you can crush three bouillon cubes and then measure 2 tablespoons. You can also replace all the bouillon with 2 teaspoons table salt, though the dish will taste less savory. The jalapeno can be seeded or omitted if you desire a milder dish. The sauce will thicken quite a bit as it sits; serve the pasta immediately from the hot pot for the best texture.”

Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with foil.

Brush poblanos all over with oil and arrange skin side up on baking sheet. Broil until skins are spotty brown and beginning to blacken, 4 to 6 minutes. Using tongs, flip poblanos and broil until other side is starting to brown and peppers are softened, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from oven, let peppers cool slightly, then remove and discard skins.

Make sauce: In the jar of a blender, process skinned poblanos, cilantro, cream cheese, milk, sour cream, chicken bouillon powder and jalapeno, if using, until smooth, about 1 minute. Set aside.

Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Add pasta and salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente, 8 – 10 minutes. Reserve 1 cup cooking water and drain pasta.

Melt butter in now empty saucepan over medium heat. Add sauce and bring to simmer, stirring occasionally, until bubbling and slightly thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add pasta and cook, tossing constantly with tongs, until pasta is evenly coated with sauce. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

Per serving: 620 calories (percent of calories from fat, 37), 19 grams protein, 82 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams total sugars, 11 grams fiber, 26 grams total fat (12 grams saturated), 57 milligrams cholesterol, 190 milligrams sodium.

Credit: Steve Klise

Credit: Steve Klise

Light Rolls

The savory flavor of these egg-free rolls comes from lard, which is best melted on the stovetop. The dough will be sticky, but bakes into a soft, toothsome texture.

Whisk flour, yeast and salt together in bowl of stand mixer. Whisk milk, melted lard and sugar in 4-cup liquid measuring cup until sugar has dissolved.

Using dough hook on low speed, slowly add milk mixture to flour mixture and mix until cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Increase speed to medium-low and knead until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl, about 5 minutes.

Transfer dough to lightly floured counter and knead by hand to form smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in lightly greased large bowl or container, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in volume, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Make foil sling for 13-by-9-inch baking pan by folding 2 long sheets of aluminum foil; first sheet should be 13-inches wide and second sheet should be 9-inches wide. Lay sheets of foil in pan perpendicular to each other, with extra foil hanging over edges of pan. Push foil into corners and up sides of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan, then spray foil with vegetable oil spray.

Press down on dough to deflate. Transfer dough to clean counter and divide into thirds. Cut each third into 5 equal pieces (about 3 ounces each) and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time (keep remaining pieces covered), form piece into rough ball by stretching dough around your thumb and pinching edges together so that top is smooth. Place ball seam side down on clean counter and, using your cupped hand, drag in small circles until dough feels taut and round. Repeat with remaining dough pieces.

Arrange dough balls seam side down into 5 rows of 3 balls in prepared pan and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let rolls rise until nearly doubled in size and dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your finger, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Bake until golden brown and rolls register at least 195 degrees, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking. Brush rolls with melted butter and let cool in pan on wire rack for 3 minutes. Using foil overhang, transfer rolls to wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

To make ahead: Unrisen rolls can be refrigerated for at least 8 hours or up to 16 hours; let rolls sit at room temperature for 1 hour before baking.

Makes 15.

Per roll: 252 calories (percent of calories from fat, 35), 5 grams protein, 35 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams total sugars, 1 gram fiber, 10 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 13 milligrams cholesterol, 321 milligrams sodium.

Credit: Steve Klise

Credit: Steve Klise

Southern-Style Baby Lima Beans

This recipe is deceptive in its simplicity. These frozen lima beans cooked in chicken broth with an onion and a bit of bacon was the sleeper hit when I tested these recipes. People who turn up their noses at lima beans went back for seconds and the bowl was scraped clean. The cooking method results in beans that are creamy and richly flavored making it a dish that provides rewards far beyond the ease of its preparation.

Cook bacon in large saucepan over medium heat until lightly browned and fat has rendered, 7 to 10 minutes. Add broth, lima beans, water, onion, pepper and salt. Bring to boil over high heat.

Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until beans just begin to break down and liquid is thickened, about 1 hour (liquid will continue to thicken as it sits). Discard onion. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve.

Serves 6.

Per serving: 241 calories (percent of calories from fat, 29), 12 grams protein, 31 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams total sugars, 7 grams fiber, 8 grams total fat (3 grams saturated), 16 milligrams cholesterol, 1,105 milligrams sodium.

Credit: Steve Klise

Credit: Steve Klise

Stewed Collards

This recipe tweaks traditional stewed collards in a major way by starting the collards on the cooktop but then finishing them in the oven. The greens cook evenly and there’s no need to keep stirring the collards to keep them from scorching on the bottom of the pot as they cook their way to tenderness.

The editors of “When Southern Women Cook” suggest serving the dish with a few dashes of pepper vinegar in addition to or instead of the hot sauce.

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.

Trim collard stems to base of leaves; discard trimmings. Cut leaves into roughly 2-inch pieces. Place collards in large bowl and cover with water. Swish with your hand to remove grit. Repeat with fresh water as needed until grit no longer appears in bottom of bowl. Remove collards from water and set aside (you needn’t dry them).

Melt butter in large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and cook until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add water, ham hocks, garlic, salt, sugar and pepper flakes and bring to boil over high heat. Add collards (pot may be full) and stir until collards wilt slightly, about 1 minute. Cover, transfer to oven, and cook until collards are very tender, about 1 1/2 hours.

Transfer ham hocks to cutting board and let cool for 10 minutes. Remove meat from ham hocks, chop, and return to pot; discard skin and bones. Season collards with salt to taste. Serve with hot sauce.

Serves 8.

Per serving: 393 calories (percent of calories from fat, 76), 16 grams protein, 9 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams total sugars, 5 grams fiber, 33 grams total fat (12 grams saturated), 71 milligrams cholesterol, 708 milligrams sodium.

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