While its exact origins are somewhat murky, the Tom and Jerry yuletide cocktail is most often attributed to British writer Pierce Egan, whose 1821 book “Life In London” was adapted into the stage play “Tom and Jerry.” Other sources credit New York City bartender Jerry Thomas, whose 1862 “Bar-Tender’s Guide” also included the first recipe for the Tom Collins. Regardless, the warm, decadent, frothy, spiced and spiked elixir is perfect for holiday gatherings this time of year.
Think of the Tom and Jerry as the Gilded Age’s answer to the pumpkin-spiked latte, albeit one that could land you in the drunk tank for Christmas. While the concoction calls for creating a labor-intensive batter of stiff egg whites and yolks, famed tiki drink purveyor Trader Vic’s sells a tasty packaged version of the classic Tom and Jerry batter online.
Unlike eggnog, its dairy and rum relative, the Tom and Jerry is served hot, made with either boiling water or hot milk. The boozy seasonal sipper was introduced to a new generation of holiday hipsters, thanks in part to author Andre Darlington’s “A Booze and Vinyl Christmas” (Running Press, 2023), which pairs vintage holiday records with handcrafted cocktails.
Credit: Courtesy of Running Press Books
Credit: Courtesy of Running Press Books
“Cocktails are descended from communal punches and have always had a group quality to them,” Darlington explained in a recent email exchange for this story. “But increasingly, the idea of sharing something together — especially if it is frothy, boozy and delightful — appeals to our time as a release from stress and uncertainty.”
In the 1940s and 1950s, millions of Tom and Jerry bowl and cup sets were manufactured by brands including Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. and Anchor Hocking’s Fire King. But like other highly collectible mid-century modern vintage items, including Pyrex nesting bowls and Evergleam aluminum Christmas trees, Tom and Jerry sets can be difficult to find in 2024.
“I couldn’t even begin to tell you where to look,” said vintage retailer Darlene Cox, owner of the Scarlett Loves Retro booths at Decatur Estate Vintage Market. “I’ve not seen one in person in ages.” (Can’t get your hands on a Tom and Jerry set? A vintage silver or glass punch bowl set will suffice.)
Credit: Courtesy of Paolo Aguila
Credit: Courtesy of Paolo Aguila
The communal cocktail trend doesn’t surprise antiquities experts like Cox. “I think especially after the pandemic … folks are looking to gather with friends and get closer knit with their families. Heirlooms and traditions become more important,” she said.
In honor of the season, longtime Atlanta mixologist Eric Simpkins, now in residence at chef-owner Kevin Gillespie’s latest culinary creation Nadair, has created the O Bob and Jerry. In keeping with the restaurant’s Scottish-inspired focus, the cocktail is a Scottish take on the Tom and Jerry, and whose name is a cheeky nod to Scottish poet Robert Burns.
For his variation, Simpkins turned to a bottle of Compass Box Orchard Blended Malt Scotch Whisky. “Communal drinks like this take effort behind the scenes but make it easier to share in the moment,” Simpkins said. “It’s an experiential kind of cocktail with a history, a story and a holiday tradition behind it. It’s a way of connecting to the past and making new memories. And done right, they are delicious and provide evidence of why recipes like this can stand the test of time and are worth the effort. They warm us in the cold dark nights.”
In the age of cocktails in a can, Andre Darlington isn’t surprised by the elegant pushback the Tom and Jerry resurgence represents. “I think there’s something about the pageantry of the drink which I think is also the reason behind the recent popularity of things like caviar service. If you’re looking for fun and escape, there are no better partners than Tom and Jerry.”
RECIPES
These three recipes are variations of the traditional winter holiday cocktail Tom and Jerry. The Stork Club Tom and Jerry is the simplest of the trio and is perfect for a single serving. Shepherd’s Watch and O Bob and Jerry are batched drinks. Both call for a batter, which is the beaten egg mixture that forms the base of the beverage. This luscious, decadent mix is then combined with alcohol and hot milk or hot water.
When whipping the egg whites for the batter, make sure no yolk is in the bowl or on the beaters. Otherwise, the fat from the yolks may prevent the egg whites from forming a stable foam and stiff peaks.
Note that the FDA warns against the consumption of raw, unpasteurized eggs. However, if you use pasteurized eggs, the beaten egg whites will not reach stiff peaks easily and your drink will be more creamy than fluffy.
Credit: Courtesy of Paolo Aguila
Credit: Courtesy of Paolo Aguila
The Stork Club Tom and Jerry
Based on a classic drink recipe from a legendary New York nightclub, this version is perfect for a single serving.
- 1 egg, separated
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 ½ ounces Jamaican rum
- Dash brandy
- Sprinkle nutmeg
- In a small bowl, beat egg white with a hand mixer at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes.
- In a second bowl, whisk egg yolk until blended. Using a rubber scraper, fold the beaten egg into the egg white.
- In a Tom and Jerry or other cup, add the sugar and rum. Fill with boiling water. Spoon the egg white mixture over the water. Stir with a spoon.
- Finish with a dash of brandy and sprinkle of nutmeg.
Serves 1.
Per serving: 187 calories (percent of calories from fat, 50), 6 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, 11 grams total sugars, no fiber, 5 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 186 milligrams cholesterol, 71 milligrams sodium.
Adapted from “The Stork Club Bar Book” by Lucius Beebe (Rinehart, 1946).
Credit: Jason Varney
Credit: Jason Varney
Shepherd’s Watch
Think of this prebatched cocktail as a chai-inflected Tom and Jerry. The recipe is adapted from Andre Darlington’s “A Booze & Vinyl Christmas” (Running Press, 2023), which has inspired a new generation of Tom and Jerry imbibers.
For large gatherings, scale the recipe up by combining the ingredients in a punch bowl, and serving extra nutmeg on the side.
- 2 tablespoons Shepherd’s Watch Spiced Batter (see recipe)
- 2 ounces dark rum
- 4 ounces hot (about 210 degrees) whole milk
- Ground nutmeg, for garnish
- In a warm mug, stir together spiced batter and rum.
- Top with hot milk.
- Garnish with nutmeg.
Serves 1.
Per serving: 371 calories (percent of calories from fat, 32), 10 grams protein, 31 grams carbohydrates, 31 grams total sugars, trace fiber, 9 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 197 milligrams cholesterol, 121 milligrams sodium.
Shepherd’s Watch Spiced Batter
This batter makes enough for 24 servings of the Shepherd’s Watch cocktail. The recipe can be easily halved for smaller gatherings.
We suggest preparing the batter a few hours before serving for best flavor, but it will keep up to three days if prepared in advance.
- 12 eggs, separated
- 1 ½ cups granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1 teaspoon ground allspice
- In a large bowl, using a stand mixer or immersion blender, beat egg whites on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form about 5 minutes.
- In a medium bowl, beat together egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, cloves and allspice.
- Using a rubber spatula, fold yolk mixture into egg whites.
- If not using immediately, refrigerate batter in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Makes about 24 servings.
Per (2-tablespoon) serving: 85 calories (percent of calories from fat, 25), 3 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 13 grams total sugars, trace fiber, 2 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), 93 milligrams cholesterol, 36 milligrams sodium.
Adapted from “A Booze & Vinyl Christmas” by Andre Darlington (Running Press, 2023).
O Bob and Jerry
This cocktail is Nadair mixologist Eric Simpkins’ Scottish take on a Tom and Jerry. Unlike traditional versions, Simpkins serves this drink in a stemmed beer glass rather than a mug. For best results, use whole milk.
- 6 ounces milk
- 2 ounces O Bob and Jerry Batter (see recipe)
- 1 ounce Neisson Rhum Agricole Blanc or Reserve Speciale
- 1 ounce Compass Box Orchard Blended Malt Scotch Whisky
- Dash Angostura bitters
- Fresh cinnamon stick, grated, for garnish
- In a small saucepan, bring milk to simmer over medium heat.
- To a 10- to 16-ounce stemmed beer glass, add O Bob and Jerry Batter, rum and Scotch.
- Whisk simmering milk into batter mixture.
- Top with bitters and stir with a spoon.
- Sprinkle grated cinnamon over the top. Serve hot.
Serves 1.
Per serving: 483 calories (percent of calories from fat, 23), 9 grams protein, 55 grams carbohydrates, 55 grams total sugars, trace fiber, 8 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 129 milligrams cholesterol, 117 milligrams sodium.
O Bob and Jerry Batter
- 6 eggs, separated
- 2 1/4 cups granulated sugar
- Zest from 2 oranges
- 1 ounce cognac, preferably V.S. Cognac
- 1⁄2 ounce Benedictine
- 3 tablespoons vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1⁄4 teaspoon ground allspice
- 1⁄2 teaspoon ground mace
- 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 6 dashes Angostura bitters
- 6 drops orange extract
- 6 drops orange blossom water
- In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks until blended. Gradually whisk in sugar, orange zest, cognac, Benedictine, vanilla, cinnamon, allspice, mace, cloves, bitters, orange extract and orange blossom water.
- In a large bowl, using a stand mixer or immersion blender, beat egg whites on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes.
- Use a rubber scraper to fold egg whites into yolk mixture.
- If not using immediately, refrigerate batter in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Makes approximately 10 servings.
Per (2-ounce) serving: 242 calories (percent of calories from fat, 11), 4 grams protein, 47 grams carbohydrates, 46 grams total sugars, trace fiber, 3 grams total fat (1 gram saturated), 112 milligrams cholesterol, 44 milligrams sodium.
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