The sleek, modern interior of Foundation Social Eatery seemed transformed into something more like a cozy French bistro when I was served my entree of duck breast with seasonal kumquat gel, accompanied by a house-made sourdough country loaf with European salted butter.
The magret de canard was juicy, crisp and its meatiness was balanced neatly by a bright, tasty sauce.
Chef Mel Toledo scores the skin to achieve proper rendering, an even cook and to retain the natural juices. The portions then are cured, dry-aged for five days and reverse-seared. The fat is rendered until it reaches that coveted crunch, while the interior is moist when cooked rare to medium rare.
Marinated oyster mushrooms and brined bok choy flanked the oblong, steak-like slabs in a shiny puddle of verjus beurre blanc. And the savory satisfaction was spiked by the sunny globs of fermented kumquat gel, so citrus-forward it was almost effervescent.
The dish was a paragon of intensity and richness.
Foundation Social Eatery. 55 Roswell St., Alpharetta. 678-691-0028, foundationatl.com
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