The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s digital repository of recipes contains thousands of creative, delicious dishes contributed by food staff writers, cookbook authors and chefs through the years. It’s time to resuscitate these recipes! We’re doing just that with the launch of Second Helping, a weekly column that features a recipe previously published in the AJC. You can expect seasonal dishes from former AJC food editors, Southern fare from famed regional cookbook writers, and restaurant recipes from Atlanta chefs adapted for the home cook. We hope you enjoy this new column and come back each week for a second helping.
This recipe for dashi-pickled radishes was originally published on March 3, 2016. It was provided by Savannah Sasser during her tenure as executive chef at Twain’s Brewpub and Billiards in Decatur. Sasser left that position in 2017 to run the kitchen at Hampton + Hudson in Inman Park and a year later served as opening chef for The Expat in Athens. In late 2020, she created her own company Sasser Culinary Insights, offering personal chef services, restaurant consulting and food styling.
“I thought about going back to restaurants, but I’ve enjoyed my quality of life,” she told the AJC in a recent interview, recalling her time at Twain’s as “something magical.”
She also recalled that her quick-pickle radish recipe, which marries the springtime root vegetable with Asian flavors, as one she developed during the “pickling stage” of her career. “You know chefs. We all go through stages,” she said.
Sasser liked to serve these pickles with spicy chicken, fish and seafood dishes, or to go alongside a sandwich or in a salad. She occasionally made them to accompany a Twain’s special such as pan-fried redfish with kimchi orzo and miso-braised rapini. In this photo, they are paired with a sandwich of house-smoked trout with Le Puy green lentils, arugula and sprouts in lemon vinaigrette, all served on rye bread.
Any variety of radish can be used to prepare this recipe. Ones with a pink skin will turn the pickles a blush color, and any radish will retain a bit of crunch to go along with the vinegar bite. The quantity of radishes needed will depend on the type of radish used. Start with a half pound and slice enough to fill a pint jar.
“Radishes are very versatile and (when) raw they are crispy with a peppery taste. In a quick pickle they can hold on to their crispiness while adhering to the flavors they’ve been pickled (in) and adding their own flavor profile,” Sasser said when she shared the recipe in 2016. “How thickly you slice them can add different depths to a dish and they go well with a variety of proteins and food styles.”
Instant dashi is available at stores that carry Asian groceries, but the pickles will still be delicious if you prefer to leave it out.
You may find you have a little leftover brine after covering the radish slices. Let it cool, then strain and use the seasoned vinegar in a vinaigrette.
Credit: Matthew Wong
Credit: Matthew Wong
Dashi-Pickled Radishes
- 8 ounces radishes
- 1 1/2 cups unseasoned rice wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 2 teaspoons instant dashi
- 1 teaspoon mustard seeds
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
- Trim the radishes and slice them about 1/8-inch thick. Put sliced radishes in a 1-pint jar.
- In a small saucepan, make the brine by combining vinegar, salt, sugar, dashi, mustard seeds and peppercorns. Bring to a boil. Carefully pour brine over radishes. Allow to cool and refrigerate at least 1 day before serving. Will keep up to 1 month refrigerated.
Makes 1 pint pickles.
Per 1 tablespoon: 10 calories (percent of calories from fat, 0), trace protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, no fat, no cholesterol, 202 milligrams sodium.
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