It’s a little overwhelming to curate the many kinds of pizzas in Italy. Each region — and municipalities within those regions — offers its own magical interpretation of how flour, yeast, water and salt can come together to form one of the world’s most famous, ubiquitous dishes. Sometimes the difference between what’s served in one town and the next may be something as simple as the minerals in the water. But that difference! An Italian pizzaiolo will argue the merits as if defending Italy’s stake in the next World Cup.
In the western Riviera, pissaladeira, replete with anchovies and olives, reigns. The pinza of Venice made with wheat flour and cornmeal is sweet with sugar, fennel and dried fruits. In Rome, pizza a taglio, or in teglia, is prepared in giant sheet pans and cut into squares for eating on the spot.
In the States, we’re mostly familiar with pizza Napoletano — the thin, blistered crust bubbling with gooey mozzarella, baked in a pizza oven at a withering 1,000 degrees. It began to lay claim to the pizza realm in the U.S. in the early 2000s. And as in Italy, we, too, argue over our pizza turf: Chicago? Deep and delicious. Detroit? Thicker than focaccia but with a crusty edge. New York? Fuhgeddaboutit. Rhode Island? Think Roman a taglio with a serious attitude. Even California got into the act back in the 80s and 90s, plopping everything from barbecue chicken to shrimp ceviche on top of a crust.
Here’s where our pizza plot — and dough, perhaps — thickens. Enter a new character, with a backstory that can be traced to focaccia, but with a new, modern twist.
Her name? Pinsa Romana.
Purportedly created by the Rome, Italy-based food company Di Marco Corrado, Pinsa Romana is a lighter, fluffier alternative to pizza Napoletano and other pizzas. The crust puffs and crisps due to the combination of wheat, rice and soy flours. Combined with a long fermentation (at least 24 hours), the result is a billowy dough that’s easy to make at home. Other than the planning needed to let the dough rise, it’s perfect for the simplest of dinners.
Unlike other styles of pizza, Pinsa Romana is shaped by hand and pressed into ovals rather than tossed or stretched. So no pizzaiolo needed. And it can be baked beautifully at 450 degrees, or even grilled, so no 1,000-degree oven needed, either. Top a pinsa with just about anything, before or after baking – it’s that versatile.
It’s easy to make a few batches of dough and leave them in the fridge for a couple of days, to use as a quick accompaniment to a meal, or, depending on the toppings, as a meal itself. Pop them out of the fridge, shape, let them rise, top and bake. Just don’t let the dough retard (rest in the fridge) for more than 72 hours; by then, the yeast will be kaput. Little hands can get in on the act, too. Pinsa crusts are small enough for the kids or grandkids to easily handle. Create a party by setting up lots of toppings and let everyone get creative.
RECIPES
Pinsa lends itself to lots of interpretation - get creative with toppings and invite the whole household to be a part of the fun.
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Pinsa Romana Dough
This dough is so versatile, light and airy – and can be topped with virtually anything, in or out of the oven, sweet or savory. Enjoy it as a main dish, or eat as a side to antipasti, salads and the like. The only trick is time. It takes 24 hours to rest the dough after mixing, so plan accordingly.
Since soy flour can be difficult to find, I’ve offered spelt in its place, with similar results (so don’t fret if you can’t find soy). Rice and spelt flours are easy to grab at most grocery stores, or through Arrowhead Mills or Bob’s Red Mill online. They are also available at Your DeKalb Farmers Market.
This recipe makes enough dough to yield three pinsa pizzas. Freezing the dough is not recommended.
3 ¾ cups bread flour
1/3 cup white rice flour, plus more for dusting
¼ cup soy or spelt flour
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 ¾ cups cold water (refrigerator temperature, filtered is best), divided
1 ½ teaspoons fine kosher salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
To the bowl of a stand mixer, add the bread, rice, and soy or spelt flours and the yeast.
Attach the bowl to the mixer and using a dough hook, add 1 1/2 cups cold water in a slow, steady stream while mixing on low speed until the dough comes together and no dry flour remains, about 3 minutes.
Add the salt and olive oil and mix on medium speed until incorporated. Add the remaining 1/4 cup water gradually as you continue mixing. Mix until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
Remove the dough from the bowl and shape into a ball, using rice flour to dust. Rub a little olive oil into the bowl, place the dough ball back in the bowl, then rub a small amount of olive oil on the surface of the dough. Cover the dough with plastic wrap so that the wrap touches the surface of the dough. Let the dough rise in the refrigerator for 24 hours. (Note that it will not double in size.) Don’t let the dough sit for more than 72 hours or the yeast will die.
After 24 hours, turn the dough out onto a flat surface dusted with rice flour. Divide the dough into three equal pieces by cutting it like a “peace” symbol.
Shape each piece into a round and place the three rounds on a rice flour-dusted sheet pan or pizza stone. Cover loosely and let rise another 1½ to 2 hours, until it has doubled in size.
While the dough is rising, heat the oven to 450 degrees and assemble your desired toppings.
Once the dough has risen, dust the surface of the counter with rice flour. Place a ball of dough on the surface and sprinkle the dough with a few drops of olive oil. Pressing from the center of the ball outward, shape each dough ball into an oval until the dough is relatively flat, about 1/2 inch in thickness, and the olive oil is equally distributed. (The oval should be about 6 inches by 10 inches.) “Dock” the dough with your fingertips by indenting across the entire surface. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough.
Carefully place each pinsa on a dusted baking sheet or pizza stone and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. The dough can be baked as is, topped with items of your choice, or topped after removing from the oven – or both! Serve each pinsa individually or cut them into two or three servings, depending on your needs.
Makes 3 pinsa pizzas.
Per pinsa pizza (without toppings): 777 calories (percent of calories from fat, 13), 25 grams protein, 141 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram total sugars, 6 grams fiber, 11 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), no cholesterol, 565 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Herb and Summer Squash Pinsa
Use summer’s bumper crop of squash to top this pinsa for an easy weeknight meal. Enjoy it on its own fresh from the oven, or top with fresh arugula, tomatoes – even sauteed chicken.
1 round prepared Pinsa Romana Dough (see recipe)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small zucchini squash, sliced into thin rounds
1 small yellow summer squash, sliced into thin rounds
Salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced
½ teaspoon fresh oregano, minced
½ teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese
Heat the oven to 450 degrees.
Have your round of pinsa dough ready. It should be fully risen, pressed into shape and docked before adding toppings.
Heat the oil in a small frying pan. When the oil is hot, add the squash, salt and pepper and cook until al dente, then remove from the pan and set aside to cool.
When the squash is cool enough to touch, spread it evenly over the prepared pinsa dough. Sprinkle with the minced rosemary, oregano and thyme. Sprinkle evenly with the Parmesan.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the crust and cheese begin to turn golden brown. Serve immediately.
Makes 1 pinsa.
Per pinsa: 1,130 calories (percent of calories from fat, 30), 45 grams protein, 155 grams carbohydrates, 11 grams total sugars, 10 grams fiber, 37 grams total fat (11 grams saturated), 29 milligrams cholesterol, 1,555 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Mushroom and Red Onion Pinsa
Par cooking the mushrooms and onions in this pinsa recipe prevents the crust from getting laden with too much moisture from the vegetables. A harbinger of fall, this pinsa begs for a cup of your favorite soup as a go with.
1 round prepared Pinsa Romana Dough (see recipe)
2 tablespoons olive oil
10 small mushrooms, sliced (any kind of mushroom – feel free to get creative!)
1/3 red onion, sliced into thin rounds and separated into circles
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup shredded provolone cheese
Heat the oven to 450 degrees.
Have your round of pinsa dough ready. It should be fully risen, pressed into shape and docked before adding toppings.
Heat the oil in a small frying pan. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms, salt and pepper and cook until the mushrooms have lost most of their water, 2 minutes. Add the onions and gently sweat them with the mushrooms until just soft. Remove from the pan and set aside to cool.
When the vegetables are cool enough to touch, spread evenly over the prepared pinsa dough. Sprinkle with the provolone cheese.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the crust and cheese begin to turn golden brown. Serve immediately.
Makes 1 pinsa.
Per pinsa: 1,207 calories (percent of calories from fat, 36), 41 grams protein, 150 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams total sugars, 7 grams fiber, 49 grams total fat (12 grams saturated), 31 milligrams cholesterol, 1,199 milligrams sodium.
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Credit: Meridith Ford for the AJC
Apple Spice Pinsa
Pinsa crust lends itself to almost any topping, and the dough can be the palette for a variety of fruits. With peaches leaving Georgia for the season, Georgia apples are just beginning to arrive. Try them on this crust as an alternative to pie or tart dough.
1 round prepared Pinsa Romana Dough (see recipe)
1 -2 small apples, sliced, skin on (use a sweet-tart apple that holds it shape such as Honeycrisp)
½ cup granulated sugar
Sprinkle of cinnamon
Sprinkle of cardamom
Dab of unsalted butter
Heat the oven to 450 degrees.
Have your round of pinsa dough ready. It should be fully risen, pressed into shape and docked before adding toppings.
Place the apples, sugar, cinnamon and cardamom in a small bowl. Using a spoon, stir until the apples are coated evenly. Spread the apples over the prepared pinsa dough. Dot with a dab of butter.
Bake for 20 minutes, until the sugar starts to bubble and the edges of the pinsa are browned. Serve immediately.
Makes 1 pinsa.
Per pinsa: 1,298 calories (percent of calories from fat, 10), 25 grams protein, 275 grams carbohydrates, 126 grams total sugars, 12 grams fiber, 16 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 569 milligrams sodium.
Meridith Ford is an Atlanta-based chef and food writer. She owns Cremalosa gelateria in Decatur.
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