Although it’s thought of as a quick-cooking protein, I prefer to cook salmon as slow as possible — especially in cooler months when I don’t mind having the oven on for a while. Cooking the fish at a relatively slow clip also provides a longer time window to pull it from the oven before it overcooks.

Adding a flavorful, olive oil-filled vinaigrette to the baking dish helps keep the fish insulated. You don’t need to add enough oil to cover the fish; a quarter of an inch or so is plenty to get the benefits. You’re not quite cooking it like a confit, but you’re getting close. The result is a tender, moist texture from edge to edge that just starts to flake when pierced with a fork.

The citrus vinaigrette in this recipe is based on a similar version from Susan Vu at Anova Culinary, a smart kitchenware company. Adding rounds of colorful citrus fruit boosts the flavor of the salmon and adds elegance to a weeknight meal. You can use a blend of fruits or stick to oranges or mandarins. (It’s preferable to pick a sweet citrus fruit rather than a tart one if you’re not going to use a blend.) Use the fruit juice in the vinaigrette, along with maple syrup to balance the acidity. Finely minced garlic adds depth and heat. A flurry of fresh soft herbs — dill, parsley and chives all work — added right before serving brings a bit of freshness.

Make it a meal with a green salad and steamed couscous on the side, which are both simple to prepare while the fish cooks.

Slow-Roasted Citrus Salmon

4 citrus fruits, such as oranges, mandarins, grapefruits, lemons and/or limes

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed through a rasp grater

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

4 (6-ounce) skinless salmon fillets

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, parsley or chives

On the side: Steamed couscous and mixed green salad

Heat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle.

While the oven is heating, prepare the fruit: Cut one half of each fruit into thin slices and set aside. Juice the remaining halves directly into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Add the olive oil, maple syrup, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Whisk to combine.

Season the salmon with salt and pepper and place in the baking dish. Spoon some of the vinaigrette over the fish. Place the sliced citrus on top of the salmon. Transfer to the oven and bake until the fish is just starting to flake and registers 125 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 20 to 25 minutes.

Transfer the salmon to plates. Drizzle with a bit of the vinaigrette from the baking dish and top with the dill. Serve hot, with steamed couscous and mixed green salad on the side.

Serves 4.

Per serving: 407 calories (percent of calories from fat, 55), 35 grams protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams total sugars, trace fiber, 24 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 126 milligrams cholesterol, 368 milligrams sodium.

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