Some dishes can transport you to faraway places through the ingredients or cooking techniques. Chef Duane Nutter of Southern National in Summerhill has a knack for preparing a global dish that somehow manages to bring your tastebuds right back to the South.
In a new entree, he transforms a humble cruciferous vegetable. Cauliflower florets coated in tandoori spices are roasted to tender perfection, with crisp edges. The meaty hunks take on the deep reddish hue of the spices — sweet coriander, nutty fenugreek and the piney-citrus notes of cardamom. Light, fluffy granules of pearl couscous readily soak up the marinade.
Everything works together: Sauteed cremini mushrooms add a pleasant, earthy pop. Cashew cream provides slick richness. Spinach, reduced to its softened form, is reminiscent of Southern greens, especially alongside a cucumber-tomato relish. The colorful mélange is a tantalizing treat for the senses.
Southern National. 72 Georgia Ave., Atlanta. 404-907-4245, southernational.com
Sign up for the AJC Food and Dining Newsletter
Read more stories like this by liking Atlanta Restaurant Scene on Facebook, following @ATLDiningNews on Twitter and @ajcdining on Instagram.
About the Author