This month, sink your teeth into a winter salad, decadent uni rice, American wagyu and meaty mushrooms.
Persimmon and burrata salad at Ganji
Along with a series of Korean American dishes with chile crisp complementing the fried edges, I ordered Ganji’s seasonal burrata salad. No mere healthy supplement, it was a brilliant dish.
In the winter version, the plump ball of burrata, with a solid outer casing and lush interior of curds and cream, rested in the center of smallish leaves of farm lettuces, which were coated lightly with a dressing featuring apples and sweet and sour jujube fruit. Slices of persimmon were added, along with toasted pepitas and honey butter croutons.
A perfect bite included peppery lettuce; juicy, sweet persimmon; creamy burrata; the roasted notes of pepita and the crunch of croutons — all brought together with the tangy, subtly sweet dressing. There was enough of the supple cheese to dip other appetizers into it, too.
2421 Van Fleet Circle, Doraville. 404-944-2892, minhwaspirits.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Uni rice at Hayakawa
Uni, the edible part of sea urchins from Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido, is highly prized for its intense umami flavor, which comes from them feeding on plentiful kombu (kelp). Chef Atsushi Hayakawa gets the delicacy from his homeland for the special uni rice served at the omakase restaurant named after him.
The decadent dish comes with a show, as the chef mixes and stirs, describing each move of his chopsticks through a headset microphone. Vinegared and seasoned sushi rice provides body as he mixes ample amounts of smooth, buttery uni into it. He then tops it all with more uni, torching the peak of rice for charred flavor, to complement the complexity of the creamy, sweet seafood.
It melts on your tongue and pairs satisfyingly with the warm rice. There is a pureness to the dish — no sauce or spice is needed for the delicate blend of briny orange lobes. A meal at Hayakawa is a splurge in 14 courses, and this dish is the star.
1055 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 770-986-0010, hayakawaatl.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
American wagyu Rossini-style at Il Premio
Named for Italian composer Gioachino Rossini, tournedos Rossini combines the Italian appreciation for high-quality ingredients with French cooking techniques. At Il Premio, it is ample enough to be an entrée but also can be enjoyed with one of the Italian steakhouse’s pastas.
The dish revolves around a cut from the most tender beef part. In Il Premio’s case, this is filet mignon from American wagyu, a crossbreed of Japanese wagyu and Black Angus. Pan-fried in butter and served on a heated plate, it was tender, juicy and exactly what I consider medium rare — a warm red center, soft and juicy. The butter-basted exterior was browned and crisply caramelized.
Crowning the steak was a slice of rich, velvety, spiced foie gras. Frilly sauteed maitake mushrooms sat to the side, adding earthy savoriness. Madeira wine was added to the beef reduction jus with truffle in a demi-glace. There likely won’t be any left after you whirl each bite of steak, mushroom and roasted cippolini onion garnish through the concentrated flavor of the meat glaze.
800 Rankin St. NE, Atlanta. 470-470-8020, ilpremioatlanta.com
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Credit: Angela Hansberger
Ellijay trumpet mushrooms at Kindred
The scallop-like texture of Ellijay mushrooms is the main attraction in a dish on the “shares” menu at Kindred — but you won’t want to divvy up this plate.
Trumpet mushrooms can stand in for meat seamlessly, and from the first bite, it was hard to believe these were shrooms. The slabs of meaty mushroom were golden brown, with a hint of buttery garlic. Searing created firm edges, intensifying the flavor of the dense, chewy insides. The mushrooms were nestled in a bed of lettuces, minimally dressed in a snappy sesame vinaigrette. Pickled red onion provided color and tang,
Parsnips shaved into ribbons were more than adornment; the nongreasy tendrils were crisply fried, with a sweet, nutty-peppery flavor. They could be a bar snack alone. The dressing pulled everything together, adding depth and complexity.
The dish’s balance of warm and cold, bright and savory, soft and crunchy was as much fun to eat as it was satisfying.
2751 LaVista Road, Atlanta. 404-975-3542, kindreddecatur.com
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