Since the modern Atlanta food hall scene began in the fall of 2014 with the debut of Krog Street Market, more than a dozen of the venues have opened in the metro area, stretching from Halcyon in Alpharetta down to the West End’s Lee & White district. Others are in the works for Chamblee, Roswell, Peachtree Corners and Snellville.
Among the newest is Halidom Eatery in Woodland Hills, near East Atlanta.
An invitation to a media preview event described Halidom, which references a 12th-century term for a sanctuary, as “offering an oasis amidst the urban hustle of Moreland Avenue.”
The 13,000-square-foot space — which has 11 stalls, a full-service bar, an event area and an outdoor green space — lives up to the name. The clean design is bright, airy and inviting, from the breezeway entrance with its faux green wall and neon pink signage to the ample seating inside (tables, booths, bar stools and lounge-style sofas and chairs) and umbrella-covered patio seating outside. It can accommodate any size party, plus there’s plenty of free parking.
Credit: Paula Pontes
Credit: Paula Pontes
The food comes from a diverse mix of vendors and ranges from Philly cheesesteaks, hot dogs, waffles and pizza to Indian, Japanese, Mexican and Caribbean cuisines.
Fish tacos and refreshing, cinnamon-flecked house-made horchata were the winners at Luze Mexicano Cocina. Butter chicken in a super silky creamy tomato gravy paired with sides of curried chickpeas and mango chutney and a round of griddled naan was the most delicious combo meal from Mango Indian Grill. At Luca’s Brooklyn Pizzeria, the cacio e pepe-inspired Big Whitey, the meaty and heat-laden Big Bad Wolf’s Revenge and the fungi-topped Fun Guy all were worth the $6-$7.50 price of a thin, crispy Brooklyn-style slice. (Whole 16-inch pies run $21-$28.)
The growing regional chain Buena Papa offers an international, carb-loaded experience as baskets of french fries are piled with staple ingredients from Colombia, Greece, Puerto Rico and other parts of the globe. There’s also the, er, “healthy” menu item that subs sweet potato fries for regular spuds and tops ’em with guacamole, sour cream and a mediocre smoked salmon filet.
Credit: Handout
Credit: Handout
However, after having ordered trayfuls of food from every stall — including repeat visits to some — there were far more misses than hits. And while many people think of food halls as affordable, I found many menu items at Halidom Eatery had sit-down, full-service-restaurant level prices.
Also, a $28 lobster roll and $25 seafood nachos from Deallo’s Seafood brought low-quality seafood for a pretty penny.
The pork broth in an order of tonkatsu ramen from Wasabi tasted and smelled rancid. I could manage only a few slurps before setting the bowl aside.
Luze Mexicano’s toasted corn flatbread for a memela was too floppy and oily to handle the topping of grilled steak, shrimp, poblano peppers, onions and broiled asadero cheese, while the al pastor taco lacked pork flavor and a birria taco came with a soulless consomé.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
The $25 I spent on liège waffle creations from Press Waffle Co. was a waste. No manner of sweet toppings or layer of ice cream could mask the dryness of the waffles, which tasted like they’d been sitting out all day.
Although I can’t recommend the weak espresso-based coffee drinks from Grind Time Cafe, it was at this counter I discovered banana pudding by fledgling local food business Can Cakes. These 6.7-ounce desserts-in-a-can don’t come cheap ($11.96 with tax) but, as a prepackaged product, they are as impressive in taste as they are in looks. Now, I’m itching to try Can Cakes’ Japanese cheesecake, caramel flan and tiramisu.
The vendor that most impressed was Bar La Rose. Unlike the food stalls at Halidom Eatery, this full-service bar is owned by Hal Blackman, who spearheaded the development of the food hall and is the CEO and president of IST Management Services, which is headquartered in the building. It has a sizable menu of cocktails, draft and canned beer, wine and nonalcoholic drinks.
My party was content with mixed drinks, such as the whiskey-based peach please cocktail, topped with ginger beer; the mezcal amaro amore Negroni; and the cucumber-forward, booze-free Rosa’s garden. They offer $8 margarita specials on Tuesdays, $5 wine by the glass on Wednesdays and Boozy Brunch Sundays that feature specially priced mimosa flights and cocktails.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Bar La Rose also stood out for a high-energy, attentive and affable staff that greets patrons who enter the hall via the breezeway on the right-hand side. A similarly friendly concierge welcomes patrons who take the entrance on the left.
But Halidom Eatery is attracting others, besides those who patronize the expansive, wraparound Bar La Rose. During one visit, the lounge area was cordoned off for a celebratory grown-up birthday party. On another visit, a semiprivate space tucked back near Mango Indian Grill looked to be the meet-up spot for parents with toddlers. On a weekday lunch visit, the food hall appeared to be a destination for retirees and blue-collar workers.
Halidom is a fine gathering spot for anyone, but if its primary function is as an eatery, its food vendors need to improve. Otherwise, it risks losing even nearby residents to other culinary sanctuaries.
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Credit: Ligaya Figueras
Halidom Eatery. Food hall open 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sundays. 1341 Moreland Ave. SE, Atlanta. 678-712-5554, halidomeatery.com.
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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