A tuna melt sandwich that’s an inch thick, with filling light as air ... African nut soup that wards off the chill of autumn ... crisp, golden tater tots that aren’t weighed down with oil — these are just a few of the unfussy bites that await when you step inside Motorboat.
Open since early September, the sandwich shop and bar is the latest venture from Tim Catalfo, who also owns Bantum Pub and Big Game, both located in the Old Fourth Ward.
Credit: Praim Siribothi
Credit: Praim Siribothi
With Motorboat, Catalfo has tried to create the feel of a boathouse on a lake, beach or shoreline — a place you can unwind with an order of those finely fried tater tots and a drink.
The full bar offers a handful of house cocktails, including what essentially is a black Manhattan, as well as a smooth, standout version of an el diablo that comes with the burn of jalapeño and the reddish hue of crème de cassis.
Beer drinkers will find a list of 18 that includes canned and bottled brews, with four on tap. Wine drinkers are left to choose between four unimpressive grocery-store finds.
Credit: Praim Siribothi
Credit: Praim Siribothi
There are a dozen sandwiches on the menu, and the price range ($8-$15) is right. All the handhelds, with the exception of the Chicago Italian beef, are made with Alon’s bread. And numerous meats are prepared in-house. The sandwiches come with a pickle, a bag of chips or tots, a pasta salad, or a side salad for an upcharge.
Apart from a veggie version with roasted eggplant, red peppers and zucchini, whose bread quickly turned soggy, we gave a thumbs-up to the sandwiches: a tuna melt; a Rueben (and its shaved turkey counterpart, a Rachel, both with an impressive Russian dressing); Chicago Italian beef; and a honey-roasted pork sandwich. The latter, with savory, juicy pulled pork, might be improved with a change of bread, though. The pork is piled on soft pan de mie, and the slightly sweet bun combined with the honey-tinged pork and a slaw that leaned sweet was too much sugar for my taste.
Credit: Praim Siribothi
Credit: Praim Siribothi
The muffuletta showcased the multi-meat flavors of the New Orleans classic, but traditionalists might scoff at this version. The layers were sandwiched between focaccia, instead of pillowy, round Sicilian sesame bread, and the whole thing was pressed instead of standing a mile high. Still, this monster of a sandwich was satisfying, even if it wanted for more olive salad.
A fried perch sandwich, clam roll and soft-shell crab sandwich are all are to be added soon. I’ll look forward to trying those, as well as the daily specials that bring variety to a meal at Motorboat, such as tater tots loaded with meaty sloppy Joe sauce; and New England clam chowder (although the diced carrots and corn kernels that bobbed in the bowl were a bit of a head-scratcher, as well as the side of shredded cheddar cheese as a garnish).
Credit: Praim Siribothi
Credit: Praim Siribothi
The two soups deserved their dedicated spot on the menu. Basil cream of tomato soup was as thick as a bisque and not acidic. African nut stew — a hearty soup chock-full of sweet potato, chicken and kale, and swirled with peanut butter — is exclusive to Motorboat. But the restaurant might do well to heat its soup bowls; soups this good deserve to stay warm longer.
Unlike most sandwich shops, Motorboat is a full-service restaurant. Service was speedy, with orders arriving quickly. On one visit, a server enthusiastically ticked off his picks; on another, a different staff member was mostly indifferent — except when it came to the strawberry cornbread shortcake. I’m more than happy to hand over $8 for this dessert, which brought moist cornbread with substance — whole kernels of corn, macadamia nuts, chocolate chips — topped with whipped cream, strawberries and blueberries.
Credit: Praim Siribothi
Credit: Praim Siribothi
I was less pleased to discover a 3.5% credit card transaction surcharge that appeared in fine print on the bill — and was not advertised on the menu, website or mentioned verbally by servers.
Still, Motorboat has a model that works: easy, affordably priced sandwiches, salads, soups, sides and sips, served in a casual, inviting space.
Catalfo is so confident that he plans to open another location in Chattanooga. From there, he hopes to chart a course toward franchiseland. Anchors away!
MOTORBOAT
2 out of 4 stars (very good)
Food: casual sandwich shop and bar
Service: speedy but detached at times
Noise level: low
Recommended dishes: bow tie pasta salad, basil cream of tomato soup, African nut stew, lamb meatballs, tater tots, muffuletta, tuna sandwich, Rachel sandwich, cornbread strawberry shortcake
Vegetarian dishes: bow tie pasta salad, creamy deli coleslaw, basil cream of tomato soup, tater tots, white bean hummus, veggie sandwich, egg salad sandwich
Alcohol: full bar, limited house cocktails, numerous craft and macro beers
Price range: $20-$35 (without drinks, tax and gratuity); restaurant charges 3.5% credit card transaction fee
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Sundays-Wednesdays, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Thursdays-Saturdays
Accessibility: zero-step entry, half-flight stairs to lower-level dining area
Parking: free in lot and on side streets
Nearest MARTA station: 1.5 miles from North Avenue
Reservations: accepted but not required
Outdoor dining: no
Takeout: available in-person only; no third-party pickup or delivery
Address, phone: 710 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta; 404-963-7156
Website: motorboatsandwichbar.com
The Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critics conduct reviews anonymously. Reservations are not made in their name, nor do they provide restaurants with advance notice about their visits. Our critics always make multiple visits, sample the full range of the menu and pay for all of their meals. AJC dining critics wait at least one month after a new restaurant has opened before visiting.
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