A fun presentation leads to complex flavors in Atlanta

The soul of Indian cooking rests in the use of aromatic spices, with flavor achieved by combining complex blends. Tabla’s chicken parda biryani does just that, and also has an elaborate, theatrical presentation as the dish is uncovered.

Cooked inside a dome of naan, the chicken was marinated and roasted slowly in spices — including cardamom, ginger, turmeric, garam masala, saffron and rosewater. It was layered with parboiled basmati rice, then sealed and slow-cooked. The chicken was succulent, but the dish worked because of the fluffiness of the basmati, each grain separate, yet absorbing the harmony of spices. There was a blast of anise, a snap of cardamom, a wallop of chiles. The bready topping took on the flavors, too.

With each thrilling, multifaceted bite, I pictured the kitchen’s colorful spice box, which I imagine is filled with tins of dried berries, seeds, herbs and chiles used to build the depth of flavor. Order parda biryani with chicken, lamb or shrimp, or vegetarian-style.