SAVANNAH — Howie Rappaport woke up Wednesday morning with priorities in mind. Biscuits first. Dogs and everything else second.
His sweet tooth is why Rappaport started his day with a trip to his favorite sweet shop rather than a walk with his canines through his neighborhood. He knew Back in the Day Bakery wasn’t scheduled to open until 10 a.m., but he also anticipated a crush of competition for his favorite pastries — and not just because it was Valentine’s Day.
Wednesday was the Savannah institution’s last day of business after 22 years in operation.
“If the line was forming at 6:15 a.m., I was going to get in it,” Rappaport said. “As it was, I was able to run home, take the dogs out, come back and still be sure to get what I wanted one last time.”
Rappaport still waited more than two hours to bid a tasty farewell to James Beard Award-nominated pastry chef Cheryl Day, her husband Griff and the staff. By the time the doors opened to what Day fondly calls a “Savannah food landmark,” located in a corner storefront 20 blocks south of the Historic District, the line of customers wrapped around the building and another half block down the sidewalk.
The last-day patrons began to queue up at 6:40 a.m. and ran the demographic gambit — young and old, male and female, Black and white, the dapper-dressed and those still in their pajamas. They chatted among themselves, comparing favorite treats and bemoaning which cookie, cupcake or biscuit they’d miss most.
When the Days joined them on the sidewalk shortly after opening to share their thanks, the hugs and the tears flowed freely.
“Food lovers at their sweet corner,” Cheryl Day said. “And tomorrow, we sleep in.”
Credit: Stephen B. Morton for The Atlanta Journal Constitution
Credit: Stephen B. Morton for The Atlanta Journal Constitution
The bakery’s closure has been imminent for months. The couple listed their property for sale last year, and when asked why, Cheryl spoke plainly about her desire for a life where she could sleep past 3 a.m. and explore “unwritten pages.” She didn’t set a closing date because she intended to keep baking until she and Griff, both age 62, found a community-minded buyer for the art deco-era, flatiron-style building.
They have, and while the next occupant has yet to be announced, Day said the space will soon be home to an “exciting, neighborhood restaurant.”
Back in the Day certainly qualified as such when it debuted in 2002. The bakery was one of the first eateries in what is now known as the Starland District, centered on an abandoned dairy located between downtown and densely populated residential neighborhoods.
Day’s culinary talents turned the bakery into a magnet for the neighborhood as more and more up-and-coming chefs and other food entrepreneurs discovered they could have success without locating downtown. Today, Starland’s dining scene rivals that of the Historic District.
Credit: Stephen B. Morton for The Atlanta Journal Constitution
Credit: Stephen B. Morton for The Atlanta Journal Constitution
As for Day, her profile rose gradually. Another well-known Savannah culinary talent, Paula Deen, featured Day on her Food Network show, which aired from 2002 to 2012. In 2015, Day earned her first James Beard Award mention when she was named a semifinalist in the pastry category. Two years ago, Day earned her second Beard nomination for her cookbook, “Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking.”
The James Beard Awards are the Oscars of the food world, recognizing the culinary industry’s top talent across the nation.
For those who flocked to the bakery for Wednesday’s finale, Day has no equals. Jason and Lindy Weimer were among the front-of-the-line crowd. They reminisced about the taste of the cupcakes Day baked for them for their wedding reception.
Lindy has been a Back in the Day regular since the bakery first opened. A student at the Savannah College of Art and Design back then, a weekend visit was her reward after a long week of classes.
Asked what the couple would miss most, they said the biscuits, which are as crispy on the outside as they are fluffy on the inside.
“They’re so perfect you don’t need to put anything else on them to make them better,” Jason Weimer said. “How do you do that?”
Credit: Stephen B. Morton for The Atlanta Journal Constitution
Credit: Stephen B. Morton for The Atlanta Journal Constitution
The Days had plenty of help for the finale. Several fellow pastry pros flew into Savannah this week to help them prep for the last day of business, and they baked into the wee hours of Valentine’s Day eve.
Even with all the extra hands, Back in the Day’s pastry cases were emptied by 1:30 p.m. Wednesday. Customers scared off by the morning line puzzled over the scant leftovers and questioned why they hadn’t followed others’ lead and come early.
“This,” Day said minutes before closing, “was awesome.”
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