Five & Ten restaurant, Athens

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You might argue that a restaurant in Athens doesn’t belong on a list of the best in Atlanta, but Hugh Acheson’s flagship is now more than ever a destination, so designate your driver and go. In mid-2013, it relocated to a creaky-gracious old house with a two-column-deep porch and a clawfoot tub still in the bathroom. You might want to have a cocktail at the zinc bar or move directly to Steven Grubbs’ honest, fair-priced wine list. Chef Jason Zygmont has a difficult balancing act to perform, satisfying the tastes of visiting parents in town for graduation while flaunting his aptitude for edgy flavor combinations and technical precision. He can crisp a fish skin like no one’s business, and get the ideal crust on a dry-aged rib-eye. Pastry chef Mike Sutton prepares some of the best desserts in the state.

Five & Ten, 1073 S. Milledge Ave., Athens. 706-546-7300, fiveandten.com.