Like Houston’s, a similar upscale casual chain that specializes in steaks and other classic American fare, Village Tavern seems to be riding out the vexations of the current economy in fine fashion.
On a recent weeknight, the Alpharetta location (metro Atlanta’s one and only) was so crowded and cacophonous that bartenders, servers and customers in the bar section had to shout to be heard above the din.
No doubt, the buzz was fueled by the half-price wine-by-the-glass special. But among the drinkers and diners, there were pairs of businessmen downing highballs and red meat, large tables of women having small plates and martinis, and a couple dressed in tennis outfits sharing salads and chardonnay.
Tavern lodge
From the outside, Village Tavern looks like a ski lodge that was dropped into an office park. A patio with umbrella tables borders the parking lot. Inside, the cavernous space is made more intimate with warm colors, dark wood and dim lighting. The main dining room is filled with roomy booths. A huge double-sided fireplace and over-sized stained-glass lamps hanging from the soaring ceiling reinforce the substantial, spacious atmosphere.
Multiple-choice menu
The sprawling, multiple-choice menu features almost every imaginable crowd-pleaser, from bar snacks, sandwiches and burgers to seafood, pasta and gluten-free dinner and brunch menus.
The small plate sampler ($15.95) includes calamari, spring rolls, crab cakes and bruschetta. A sizable plate of crunchy fried oysters ($9.95) comes with both tartar and Thai chili sauces.
Grouper Hemingway ($22.95), a filet sauteed with white wine, lemon, tomatoes and capers served over angel hair pasta, is among the most popular entrees. The maple-cured pork chop ($19.95) comes with apple chutney, garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed veggies.
Steaks, served with a salad and a side, get a special section on the menu. The Au Poivre ($25.95 8-ounce or $27.95 10-ounce) is pan-sauteed filet medallions with cracked black pepper and cognac cream sauce. Other choices include rib eye ($23.95), New York strip ($27.95) and top sirloin ($19.95)
Bar and brunch
Village Tavern has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, and the wine list includes offerings by the glass and bottle that cover a wide variety of styles and price points. The beer list is less adventurous, but features the likes of Sweetwater IPA on draft.
Sunday brunch brings on omelets, eggs Benedict with steak, crab cakes or salmon, Belgian waffles and French toast, in addition to the regular menu of burgers, salads and starters.
Dining out
Village Tavern
Address, phone: 11555 Rainwater Drive, Alpharetta. 770-777-6490
Signature dish: Steaks and pork chops
Entree prices: $7.95-$29.95
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Mondays; 11 a.m.- 10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays; 4-11 p.m. Saturdays. Sunday brunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Credit cards: Yes
Online: villagetavern.com
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