“Gringo Mexican” is the pejorative some dining critics use to describe the proliferation of less than “authentic” taquerias and cantinas dotting the restaurant landscape these days. But no matter what anyone thinks or says, these places have become immensely popular, serving up bargain-priced Tex-Mex food and drink to the penny-pinching masses.
On a recent week night at Tin Lizzy’s in Grant Park, that was easily apparent, as a broad cross-section of intown eaters packed the place, creating a convivial buzz around dinner service. And many stayed on to play trivia and sip beer and margaritas.
Memorial Drive digs
Branching out from the first Tin Lizzy’s in Buckhead, the Grant Park location took over the space formerly occupied by Six Feet Under, joining the new Six Feet, Ria’s, Stella and Standard to create a lively bar/restaurant row along Memorial Drive. Situated across from Oakland Cemetery, with a soaring rooftop deck that faces the southwest Atlanta skyline, the spot has proven its status as a happening destination.
The Tin Lizzy’s team didn’t make many significant changes in the decor. The earthy ambience of the sturdy wood bar, floors and ceilings has been augmented with tin accents and Mexican beer signs.
Service is efficient and personable, if at times a tad too eager.
Parking can be an adventure, especially during peak lunch, dinner and brunch hours. But a sign posted near the front door offers helpful tips.
Tacos, salads, skillets
The menu is built around selections of starters, tacos, salads and skillets.
“Tin Dips” include fresh guacamole, three kinds of salsa and four queso dips served with warm tortillas or tortilla chips. You can mix and match samplers, such as the Three Amigos, which includes a choice of a salsa, queso and guacamole. The portions are substantial, making it a good share. But topping out at $12.98, it’s a far cry from free chips and salsa. And, curiously, it’s the single most expensive thing on the menu.
There are nearly 20 different soft tacos (white flour or whole wheat, but no corn), ranging in price from $2.29-$3.49. Fried fish, with poblano tartar and pickled jalapeño, is the house favorite.
More exotic selections include the Greek, with juicy slices of gyro meat, lettuce and tzatziki sauce, and fried shrimp tossed in Buffalo sauce with blue cheese dressing. Any of the beef selections are a good bet.
Grilled steak with smoky chipotle sauce is tender and flavorful, and makes a tasty topping for one of the mix-and-match half- or full-size entree salads or skillets. Skillets start with vegetable rice and queso blanco, and can be loaded up with free toppings such as grilled peppers and onions, jalapeños and tortilla strips. Add taco meats, shrimp or fish ($2.99-$3.49) for the full meal deal.
Drinks, dessert, brunch
Of course, margaritas and plenty of tequila choices are part of the drinks scene here.
There’s also a decent beer list, with locals Sweetwater IPA, Red Brick Ale and Terrapin Sunray Wheat currently on draft. New on the dessert menu, look for locally made tequila or double-chocolate cupcakes.
On the weekends, brunch features breakfast tacos, and hearty skillets with eggs, potatoes and toppings.
Dining out
Tin Lizzy's, 415 Memorial Drive, 404-554-8220
Signature dish: Tacos and skillets
Entree prices: $2.29-$6.98 (tacos and skillets)
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-midnight Sundays; 11:30 a.m.-midnight Mondays; 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Tuesdays-Fridays; 10:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturdays.
Brunch menu: 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Reservations: No; call ahead for large parties
Credit cards: Yes
Online: www.tinlizzyscantina.com/grantpark
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